Tokyo

WHAT TO DO

Tokyo is the capital of Japan and one of the most populous cities in the world, with a population of over 14 million residents. Located at the head of Tokyo Bay, it is part of the Kanto region on the central coast of Honshu, Japan's largest island. Before the 17th century, Tokyo, then known as Edo, was mainly a fishing village. It gained political prominence in 1603 when it became the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate. By the mid 18th century, Edo was among the world's largest cities, with over a million residents. Following the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the imperial capital in Kyoto was moved to Edo and the city was renamed Tokyo (Eastern Capital). In 1923, Tokyo was damaged substantially by the Great Kanto earthquake and the city was later badly damaged by allied air raids during World War II. Today, Tokyo mixes the ultramodern and the traditional, from neon lit skyscrapers to historic temples. With an unlimited choice of entertainment, culture and dining including excellent museums, beautiful shrines and peaceful gardens - Tokyo is a traveler's dream.

Begin your odyssey in central Tokyo at the Imperial Palace, the residence of Japan's emperor. It occupies the site of the original Edo jo, the Tokugawa shogunate's castle. In its heyday this was the largest fortress in the world, though little remains today apart from the moat and stone walls. Most of the one and a half square mile complex is off limits to the public, but feel free to roam the East Gardens. Note: enter through Ote mon, the closest gate to Tokyo Station and once the principal entrance to Edo jo. Crafted from part of the original castle compound, these lovely gardens allow you to get close up views of the massive stones used to build the castle walls. Do not miss the Ninomaru Grove, a woodland area that is one of the prettiest parts of the garden, with a pond and an elegant teahouse. The large lawn is where the Honmaru, the castle's central compound, was once located. Also in central Tokyo is Hama Rikyu. This beautiful garden is all that remains of a shogunate summer villa next to Tokyo Bay. There is a large pond with an island, connected by a causeway, upon which sits the teahouse Nakajima no Ochaya - where you can sip matcha. Look for the spectacularly manicured 300 year old black pine tree near the Ote mon entrance. This traditionally styled garden stands in stark contrast to the skyscrapers of the adjacent Shiodome district.

Tokyo's 2 great markets are Tsukiji and Toyosu. The city's main wholesale market may have moved to Toyosu, but there are many reasons to visit its old home - Tsukiji Market. The tightly packed rows of vendors (which once formed the Outer Market) hawk market and culinary related goods, such as dried fish, seaweed, kitchen knives and crockery. It's also a fantastic place to eat, with great street food and a huge concentration of small restaurants and cafes, most specializing in seafood. Toyosu Market opened in October 2018 on the man made island of Toyosu in the Bay of Tokyo. It took over the wholesale business from the aging Tsukiji Market and provides tourists with an opportunity to observe the market action. The early morning tuna auction and other parts of the market can be viewed by the public from glass walled viewing platforms - entry to the market floor is limited to licensed buyers. The upper floors have some shops and restaurants, including sushi counters originally at Tsukiji. Note: arrive early to make the most of your visit.

Next, make your way to northern Tokyo and the National Museum - take the Ginza line on the metro to the Ueno stop. If you visit only one museum in town, make it the Tokyo National Museum. Here you will find the world's largest collection of Japanese art including ancient pottery, Buddhist sculptures, samurai swords, colorful ukiyo e (woodblock prints), gorgeous kimonos and much more. This museum held its first exhibition in 1872, making it the oldest museum in Japan. It moved to its current location in Ueno Park in 1882. Visitors with only a few hours to spare should focus on the Honkan (Japanese Gallery), which has a specially curated selection of artistic highlights on the second floor. With more time, you can explore the enchanting Gallery of Horyu ji Treasures, which displays masks, scrolls and gilt Buddhas from Horyu ji (in Nara Prefecture, dating from 607); the Toyokan with its collection of Asian art, including delicate Chinese ceramics; and the Heiseikan, which houses the Japanese Archaeological Gallery - full of pottery, talismans and articles of daily life from Japan's prehistoric periods. Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

Staying in northern Tokyo, take the Ginza line on the metro (subway) to the Asakusa stop. Asakusa's main attraction is Sensoji, a very popular Buddhist temple, built in the 7th century. The temple is approached via the Nakamise, a shopping street that has been providing temple visitors with a variety of traditional, local snacks and tourist souvenirs for centuries. After you exit the metro, turn right towards Nakamise dori street. Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is the first of two large entrance gates leading to Sensoji Temple. First built more than 1000 years ago, it is the symbol of Asakusa. Tokyo's most visited temple enshrines a golden image of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy), which, according to legend, was miraculously pulled out of the nearby Sumida River by two fishermen in AD 628. Sensoji Temple was completed in 645, making it Tokyo's oldest temple. At the end of Nakamise dori is the temple itself and to your left you will spot the 180 foot high five level Pagoda.

It is a mystery as to whether or not the ancient image of Kannon actually exists, as it’s not on public display - this does not stop a steady stream of worshippers from visiting. In front of the temple is a large incense cauldron: the smoke is said to bestow health and you'll see people wafting it onto their bodies. At the eastern edge of the temple complex is Asakusa jinja, a shrine built in honor of the brothers who discovered the Kannon statue that inspired the construction of Sensoji. Note: historically, Japan's two religions, Buddhism and Shinto, were intertwined and it was not uncommon for temples to include shrines and vice versa. The current building, painted a deep shade of red, dates to 1649 and is a rare example of early Edo architecture. It's also the epicenter of one of Tokyo’s most important festivals, May’s Sanja Matsuri.

From there, head to western Tokyo and the Meiji Jingu Shrine. Tokyo’s grandest Shinto shrine is dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, whose reign (1868-1912) coincided with Japan's transformation from isolationist, feudal state to modern nation. Constructed in 1920, the shrine was destroyed in World War II air raids and rebuilt in 1958. The main shrine, built of unpainted cypress wood with a copper plated roof, is in a wooded grove accessed via a long winding gravel path. At the start of the path you will pass through the first of several towering wooden torii (entrance gates). Just before the final torii is the temizuya (font), where visitors purify themselves by pouring water over their hands (purity is a tenet of Shintoism). To make an offering at the main shrine, toss a 5 yen coin in the box, bow twice, clap your hands twice and then bow again. Nearby there are kiosks selling ema (wooden plaques on which prayers are written) and omamori (charms). Note: the shrine itself occupies only a small fraction of the sprawling forested grounds, which contain some 120000 trees collected from all over Japan.

Conclude your tour of Tokyo with a visit to some of its popular hot spots. First up, Shibuya Crossing - take the Ginza line on the metro to the Shibuya stop. Rumored to be the busiest intersection in the world, Shibuya Crossing is like a giant beating heart, sending people in all directions with every pulsing light change. This intersection is heavily decorated by neon advertisements and giant video screens - hundreds of people cross at a time, coming from all directions at once, yet still dodging each other with a nonchalant agility. Next up, make your way to Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane). It's an atmospheric, narrow lane filled with 60 or so bustling, open fronted, hole in the wall restaurants, each seating only a handful of customers. It is a foodie destination, well known for its yakitori (skewered chicken grilled over charcoal). Note: come after dark to see the red lanterns glowing and the charcoal smoke billowing into the streets. Finish up at Golden Gai. A Shinjuku institution for over half a century - it is a collection of tiny bars, often literally no bigger than a closet and seating maybe a dozen. Each is as unique and eccentric as the ‘master’ or ‘mama’ who runs it. In a sense, Golden Gai, which has a strong visual appeal, with its low slung wooden buildings, is their work of art. The district has long been a gathering spot for artists, writers and musicians. The best way to experience Golden Gai is to stroll the lanes and pick a place that suits your mood. Note: I will share my favorite spot later on.

WHERE TO EAT

Tokyo is one of the world's most exciting dining destinations. It features a wide range of both local and regional Japanese cuisine in addition to all types of international fare. From hole in the wall joints to Michelin starred restaurants, this food mecca metropolis is sure to please. One of the city's specialties is sushi and the most popular type is nigiri - a piece of seafood put onto a small ball of rice. Originated as a fast food dish in Tokyo, it takes much less time and effort to prepare than more traditional sushi dishes. The Tsukiji Outer Market is one of the best places to eat fresh sushi. Tsukiji Kagura Sushi Honten stands out from the crowd of sushi shops at Tsukiji with its charming old school wooden interior and flawlessly friendly service. But the shop’s most remarkable feature is its sushi rice. In true traditional Tokyo style, the rice is mixed with akazu (red vinegar), giving it an amber hue. Go with the Kagura special - it offers three cuts of tuna for comparison (chu toro, bincho and otoro), plus prawn, silver fish (such as mackerel or sardine), white fish (such as snapper or sea bass), tamagoyaki omelette, ikura (salmon caviar), and other seasonal specialties like uni (sea urchin roe) and anago (saltwater eel).

Another splendid spot at the market is Tsukiji Sushi Sei Honten. This sushi establishment is popular with both locals and tourists for its exceptionally fresh seafood, great value and friendly chefs. Split across two levels, this is a surprisingly spacious restaurant and both floors are filled with natural light. Sit at the counter to admire the glass cases of glistening seafood, be entranced by the deft knife skills of the chefs and take note of classic sushi shop paraphernalia like the copper wasabi grater - a surefire sign the kitchen uses real wasabi. If you fancy tempura, be sure to visit Tempura Kurokawa. This tiny place is right at the edge of the market, but that doesn’t stop people from lining up. Without a doubt, the secret of its popularity is the combination of freshly made batter and a searing hot deep fry that produces reliably crisp and light tempura. The seafood is sourced fresh from Toyosu Market each morning and the vegetables come directly from farms in nearby Chiba Prefecture.

For more tasty tempura, head to Tenko in the Kagurazaka district. Here, vegetables and seasonal seafood from Tokyo Bay are battered and fried into tempura, a specialty of Tokyo. Second generation chef Hitoshi Arai is a master at creating delicate and lacy tempura, serving each one as it comes out of the oil. Note: it's worth trying some of the tempura with salt instead of dipping sauce to preserve the crispy covering. Nowhere in town serves tonkatsu (breaded deep fried pork) with the quality and sophistication of Butagumi, set in a two story house in the Roppongi district. At this noted spot, you dine on premium cutlets - made from your choice of a couple dozen regional heirloom breeds - cooked a beautiful golden brown and served with a pyramid of finely slivered cabbage and thick, house made Worcestershire style sauce. If you're in the mood for ramen, go for Kagari Ramen in the Ginza district. Tori paitan (creamy chicken broth for ramen) is rich and comforting, like grandma’s chicken soup. At Kagari, seasonal and colorful vegetables such as watermelon radish, snap peas and kabocha squash top the dish and rotate throughout the year. Be sure to use the side dish of grated ginger and fried garlic as you slurp your way to paradise.

Also in Ginza is the tremendous Sushi Take. This sushi restaurant is quite unique in the industry as it is led by a female chef, Fumi Takeuchi - who trained at Shimbashi Shimizu under chef Kunihiro Shimizu (he is widely regarded as one of the very best and most influential sushi masters in Tokyo). This eight seat hideaway does omakase (chef's choice), so sit back and enjoy the experience. You can expect large pieces of nigiri, delicious shellfish, kohada (gizzard shad) and impressive knife skills. Note: the restaurant is closed on Wednesday. Continuing our sushi expedition, let's head back to Toyosu Market for two more do not miss spots. Cash only Sushi Dai is one of the shops that made the move from Tsukiji to Toyosu - it's in the same building as the wholesalers market. There is no better value sushi in Tokyo than the omakase course here. The menu changes daily (and sometimes hourly), but you're guaranteed to get 10 pieces of nigiri sushi made from seafood picked up from the fish market downstairs - prepared one at a time and seasoned to perfection. The other spot is Daiwa Sushi, found below the fruit and vegetable market. Also relocated from Tsukiji, the omakase course here includes 7 pieces of nigiri sushi and one roll - all made with premium seafood. Note: both restaurants are closed the same days as the market, Sunday and Wednesday.

Among the oldest and most famous of Tokyo's wagyu (Japanese beef) restaurants, Asakusa Imahan (in business since 1895), specializes in courses of sukiyaki and shabu shabu - thin slices of marbled beef are cooked in hot broth at your table (followed up with vegetables and noodles). For sukiyaki, the broth has a deeper soy sauce flavor and the cooked meat is dipped in raw egg yolk. Note: the restaurant is open daily from 12p. Another top spot is Matsukiya in the Shibuya district. Established in 1890, there are only two things on the menu here: sukiyaki and shabu shabu. The highly rated Omi wagyu beef comes from Japan's Shiga Prefecture. Meals include veggies and noodles cooked in the broths. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday. Also in Shibuya is Narukiyo. This low key izakaya (tavern) is popular with locals. It serves all the classics - sashimi, tempura, yakitori, etc. The menu which changes daily is handwritten on a scroll and indecipherable, so sit at the counter and politely point, or leave the ordering up to chef Narukiyo Yoshida. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday.

While sushi has moved in the direction of faster and fresher, Kizushi, in business since 1923, is keeping it old school. Fourth generation chef Kazuhiro Yui uses traditional Edo techniques, such as marinating the fish in salt or vinegar, from back when sushi was more about preservation than instant gratification. The restaurant is in a lovely old timber house in the Ningyocho district. For dynamite izakaya with a healthy sake selection, seek out Sake no Ana in Ginza. With roughly 130 varieties of sake from all over Japan available by the carafe, this joint has its own sake sommelier, Sakamoto san, who can help you make a selection. Note: a nice bonus - though most sake specialty restaurants are only open for dinner, Sake no Ana is also open for lunch. My favorite place for sushi in Tokyo is Kyubey in Ginza. Operating since 1935, this prestigious restaurant is known for training many famous sushi chefs. The 10 piece omakase course starts with melt in your mouth otoro (fatty tuna). Another highlight is the ebi or 'dancing prawns' where still living prawns are prepared before your eyes and made into sushi (raw with salt or cooked). Note: reservations must be made through your hotel concierge.

Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa has worked under Paul Bocuse and Joel Robuchon. But at his restaurant Narisawa in the Aoyama district, he fuses French haute cuisine with a profound understanding of Japanese ingredients that has resulted in a style uniquely his own. Serving brilliant and unusual dishes such as Okinawan sea snake broth, alongside superb langoustine and wagyu beef, chef more than merits his two Michelin stars and spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Be sure to visit its cocktail lounge Bees Bar after dinner - it is a short walk from Narisawa. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday. My most memorable dining experience was at Den in the Shibuya district. Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa’s renowned restaurant claims two Michelin stars and the top spot in Asia on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The cooking remains innovative, incorporating audacious and humorous ideas into Japan’s highly formalized kaiseki tradition. Expect foie gras in your appetizer and happy carrots in your salad, along with chef's signature Dentucky Fried Chicken. In addition to the sensational cuisine, the service and hospitality from the entire team was outstanding. Note: reservations are quite difficult to secure as the only way to book is by calling the restaurant directly on your own (no third party) between 12p and 5p Tokyo time two months in advance.

Conclude your evening in Tokyo with a drink or two. Bar Benfiddich is located in the Shinjuku district. This dark and cozy speakeasy has vials of infusions on the shelves and herbs hung to dry from the ceiling. The English speaking barman, Kayama Hiroyasu, moves like a magician in a white suit. There's no menu, so just tell him what you like and he'll concoct something yummy for you. Note: the bar is open daily from 6p. The SG Club can be found in the Shibuya district. SG stands for 'Sip' and 'Guzzle' but also for award winning bartender Shingo Gokan. Ground floor Guzzle is a social, counter space - the house drink is chawari, shochu and tea, made with gyokuro (high grade green tea) and with a new twist every month. Downstairs, Sip is dimly lit booths and deliciously complex concoctions, like the Cold Soba Negroni featuring shochu and dashi. Note: the bar is open daily from 5p. Previously mentioned, Golden Gai is home to a collection of tiny bars and my favorite is Bar Lonely. It is everything you want a Golden Gai bar to be: rough around the edges but warm and full of character(s). Note: the bar is on the street perpendicular to the alleyways, with an English sign out front.

Back in Ginza is Bar High Five. This basement venue is home to Hidetsugu Ueno's famous ice carving prowess and excellent cocktails. The White Lady is a signature pour while the Full Bloom is a mix of maraschino and sakura liqueurs adjusted to fit your fancy. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday. Finish up at Bar Gen Yamamoto in the Roppongi district. This small ground floor space takes the seasonal tasting menu concept and applies it to cocktails. Here they're made with fruits and herbs, with the same kind of devotion to presentation seen at restaurants serving kaiseki. Choose from sets of four, six or seven - fear not, they are designed to be savored, not to get you smashed. Note: the bar is just eight seats at a counter made from a 500 year old Japanese oak tree.

WHERE TO STAY

Tokyo offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is the Shangri La Hotel, located in the Marunouchi district. Overlooking Tokyo Station, this luxury high rise property is close to the Imperial Palace and a quick metro ride from Hama Rikyu gardens. Spacious, warmly decorated rooms have flat screen TVs, Bose audio systems and designer toiletries, plus sitting areas, free WiFi and palace views. Upgraded quarters add separate living rooms. Amenities include an elegant Italian restaurant and a chic Japanese eatery, plus a posh bar, lounge and spa.

A second option is The Peninsula Hotel, located nearby in the Marunouchi district. This swanky high rise accommodation is not far from the upscale Ginza district and is a short metro ride from Tsukiji Market. Contemporary rooms offer complimentary WiFi and city views, along with dressing rooms, tea and coffee making facilities, and sitting areas with flat screen TVs. Upgrades add living rooms, a balcony and a tea ceremony on the house. Other perks include 3 elegant restaurants, 1 offering sushi making classes and another serving Cantonese fare. There is also a stylish bar, cafe and a deluxe spa.

Tokyo tantalizes with its fascinating culture, extraordinary history and marvelous cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.