Rio De Janeiro

WHAT TO DO

Rio de Janeiro, also known simply as Rio, is the capital of the state of Rio de Janeiro. It is located on the Atlantic coast in southeastern Brazil. Rio is the second most populous city in the country after Sao Paulo and the sixth most populous city in the Americas. Europeans first encountered Guanabara Bay on January 1, 1502 (hence Rio de Janeiro or 'January River'), during a Portuguese expedition under explorer Gaspar de Lemos. In 1555, one of the islands of Guanabara Bay, now called Villegagnon Island, was occupied by 500 French colonists under the French admiral Nicolas Durand de Villegaignon. The city of Rio de Janeiro proper was founded on March 1, 1565 by the Portuguese, led by Estacio de Sa. It was named Sao Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro, in honor of Saint Sebastian, the saint who was the namesake and patron of the Portuguese then monarch Sebastiao. Note: Rio de Janeiro was the name of Guanabara Bay.

From the colonial period until the first independent era, Rio de Janeiro was a city of slaves. There was a large influx of African slaves to Rio - between 1811 and 1831, up to one million slaves arrived in Rio de Janeiro through Valongo Wharf, which is now a World Heritage Site. Until the early years of the 20th century, the city was largely limited to the neighborhood now known as the historic city center, on the mouth of Guanabara Bay. The city's center of gravity began to shift south and west to the so called South Zone (Zona Sul) in the early part of the 20th century, when the first tunnel was built under the mountains between Botafogo and the neighborhood that is now known as Copacabana. Expansion of the city to the north and south was facilitated by the consolidation and electrification of Rio's streetcar transit system after 1905.

Today, Rio de Janeiro is one of the most visited cities in the Southern Hemisphere and is known for its natural settings, carnival, soccer, samba, bossa nova and legendary beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema. A town that famously embraces joyous pleasure, Rio is always a dynamic place to visit. Begin your adventure high in the sky atop Corcovado Mountain. This 2300 foot granite peak is home to one of the most famous landmarks on the planet - Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor). Constructed between 1922 and 1931, it is a colossal 100 foot tall statue of Jesus Christ. This iconic monument, recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city. The statue, with its outstretched arms, is made of concrete and adorned with soapstone mosaic tiles. A symbol of Christianity around the world, it has also become a cultural icon of both Rio and Brazil. Corcovado lies within the lush Tijuca National Park (Parque Nacional da Tijuca). The best way to reach Christ the Redeemer is to take the red cog train from Cosme Velho station, which departs every 30 minutes and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the summit. Note: be sure to purchase a cut the line ticket in order to save yourself valuable time. Special Note: for a tremendous cup of coffee and yummy cheese bread (pao de queijo), stop in to Rio Coffee House across the road from the funicular station.

Next, head to Rio's renowned Botanical Gardens (Jardim Botanico). Established in 1808 by King John VI of Portugal and spanning over 300 acres, it boasts an impressive collection of plant species including rare bromeliads and orchids. The garden also holds historical significance with its early 16th century works. Additionally, the area offers wooded trails leading to Corcovado Mountain and Tijuca National Park. For more commanding views of Rio, make your way up to Sugarloaf Mountain. This 1300 foot peak on a peninsula at the mouth of Guanabara Bay is one of the most iconic rocks in the world. Named for its resemblance to the traditional shape of concentrated refined sugarloaf, it is known worldwide for its cable car and panoramic views of the city and beyond. This engineering marvel was launched in 1912 and has since been enjoyed by millions of tourists from around the globe. The cable car ride includes three stations: Praia Vermelha, Morro da Urca and Pao de Acucar. Note: once again, purchase a cut the line ticket. Special Note: I highly recommend enjoying a caipirinha at the bar atop Sugarloaf as you take in the amazing views (valeu Beto). The caipirinha is Brazil's national cocktail - a refreshing mix of cachaca (sugarcane spirit), sugar and lime, usually served over crushed ice.

It is safe to say that both carnival and soccer (futebol) are big in Brazil. Carnival is the most popular holiday in the country and has become an event of huge proportions. This five day celebration held annually in February or early March begins the Friday before Ash Wednesday and ends on Fat Tuesday. An endless party, Rio's carnival is the largest single carnival parade in the world according to Guinness World Records. If you miss carnival, do stop by the Sambodromo. The epicenter of Rio’s carnival, this massive structure was designed by Oscar Niemeyer and completed in 1984. During big samba parades, it provides fantastic views from the stands of the elaborate floats, whirling dancers and pounding drum corps. This open air arena received a makeover for the 2016 Olympics, with improved sight lines and a more symmetrical design in keeping with Niemeyer’s original vision.

Soccer in Brazil, known as futebol, is a cornerstone of national identity and cultural passion, boasting 70 percent of the population as fans. As the only nation to play in every World Cup, Brazil has won five championships (1958, 1962, 1970, 1994 and 2002). The cathedral of football in Brazil is Rio's Estadio do Maracana, officially known as Estadio Jornalista Mario Filho. This hallowed ground has been the site of legendary victories and crushing defeats. Maracana played a starring role in the 2014 World Cup when it hosted major matches, including the final. It also staged the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2016 Summer Olympics. No matter who takes the pitch, this 80000 seat stadium comes to life in spectacular fashion on match days. Maracana is the home for two major Brazilian football clubs: Flamengo and Fluminense. The stadium is also frequently used for high profile matches by the Brazilian national team. If you are unable to attend a match, do opt for a behind the scenes tour of Maracana.

From there, head back to the city center and the very popular Selaron Steps (Escadaria Selaron). This celebrated public stairway is adorned with colorful hand painted tiles. It consists of 215 vibrant steps leading up from Rua Joaquim Silva. The Chilean born artist Jorge Selaron dedicated decades to covering the steps with over 2000 tiles collected from more than 60 countries around the world. Note: go super early if you want to avoid the crowds. Nearby is my favorite neighborhood in Rio. Santa Teresa is a picturesque hilltop district with a charming, village like atmosphere. The area features steep, winding streets lined with elegant old mansions that now house boutique hotels, cocktail bars and romantic restaurants offering bay views. Visitors can explore the Heavenly Farm Museum (Museu da Chacara do Ceu) showcasing European and Brazilian art, and the atmospheric Ruins Park (Parque das Ruinas) with an art gallery built around the ruins of a mansion. Note: make sure to ride the vintage yellow tram through the neighborhood as you take in the wonderful street art and boutique shops that Santa Teresa has to offer.

Rio is filled with many beautiful buildings and my top 3 include: the Monastery of Saint Benedict (Mosteiro de Sao Bento), the Royal Portuguese Reading Room (Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura) and the Municipal Theater (Theatro Municipal). The Monastery of Saint Benedict is one of the finest colonial churches in Brazil. It was built in the 17th century on Morro de Sao Bento and has an excellent view over the city. The simple facade hides a baroque interior richly decorated in gold. Among its historic treasures are wood carvings designed by Frei Domingos da Conceicao and paintings by Jose de Oliveira Rosa. Note: on Sundays the High Mass at 10a features a choir of Benedictine monks singing Gregorian chants.

Built in the Portuguese Manueline style in 1837, the gorgeous Royal Portuguese Reading Room houses more than 350000 works - many dating from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. It also has a small collection of paintings, sculptures and ancient coins. Note: it is considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Built in 1905 in the style of the Paris Opera, the magnificent Municipal Theater is the home of Rio's opera, orchestra and ballet. Its lavish interior contains many beautiful details - including the stage curtain painted by Italian artist Eliseu Visconti that features portraits of 75 major figures from the arts, such as Carlos Gomes, Wagner and Rembrandt. Note: guided multilingual tours lasting 45 minutes are offered Tuesday through Friday. It's also well worth attending a performance if you are able.

For the art enthusiast, Rio has several fine institutions. Looming large over Praca Maua, the Rio Museum of Art (Museu de Arte do Rio - MAR) is an icon for the rebirth of Rio's once derelict port. This huge museum hosts wide ranging exhibitions that focus on Rio in all its complexity - its people, landscapes, beauty, challenges and conflicts. Start off by taking the elevator to the top floor and absorbing the view over the bay. Then work your way down through the galleries, taking in a mix of international and only in Rio exhibitions. Note: the museum is closed on Wednesday. At the northern end of Parque do Flamengo, the Museum of Modern Art (Museu de Arte Moderna - MAM) is immediately recognizable by its striking postmodern edifice designed by Affonso Eduardo Reidy. The landscaping of Roberto Burle Marx is no less impressive. Inside, the design feels a bit dated, but it's still worth a visit for the superb collection of Brazilian artists, which includes works by Bruno Giorgi, Di Cavalcanti and Maria Martins. Note: the museum is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

Lastly, there is the National Museum of Fine Arts (Museu Nacional de Belas Artes - MNBA). Rio's fine arts museum houses more than 18000 original paintings and sculptures, some of which date back to works brought over from Portugal by Dom Joao VI in 1808. One of its most important galleries is the Galeria de Arte Brasileira, which includes 20th century classics, such as Candido Portinari's Cafe. Other galleries display Brazilian folk art, African art and furniture, as well as contemporary exhibits. Note: the museum is closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Conclude your tour of Rio by wandering through its most famous neighborhoods - Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. Copacabana is a vibrant district known for its crescent shaped beach and lively atmosphere. The area features high rise buildings overlooking the beach, including the iconic Copacabana Palace hotel and the imposing Fort Copacabana. Inland, tranquil streets are lined with laid back sidewalk cafes and casual bars. Note: it's best to explore Copacabana along Avenida Atlantica and its mosaic sidewalks during the daylight hours.

Just south of Copacabana is Ipanema, where the girl is from. Ipanema is celebrated for its stunning beach that attracts sunbathers and soccer players. The picturesque Pedra do Arpoador peninsula not only serves as a hotspot for surfers but also offers scenic trails and breathtaking sunset views. As you wander through the lush streets of Ipanema, you'll discover an array of upscale fashion boutiques, exquisite dining options and mellow bars where the soothing sounds of bossa nova fill the air. Leblon is a chic and serene neighborhood that boasts one of Rio's most beautiful beaches, making it a must visit for travelers seeking both relaxation and style. The area features lush streets lined with an array of dining options, from charming bistros to vibrant steakhouses, alongside easygoing bars perfect for enjoying a caipirinha or two. Note: if you fancy chocolate like yours truly, stop in to Dengo Chocolates - they have a shop in both Ipanema and Leblon.

WHERE TO EAT

Rio has a number of excellent places to eat and drink. Start your day at Confeitaria Colombo, located at Rua Goncalves Dias 32 in Centro. This historic cafe offers a glimpse into the city's golden age. The elegant setting features ornate chandeliers and jacaranda wood mirrors - creating an opulent atmosphere for breakfast, brunch and afternoon tea. This century old establishment was once the center of social gatherings and political intrigue during Rio's belle epoque era. Note: there is usually a line to enter. Around the corner at Rua Sete de Setembro 133 is the cozy Casa Cave. This historic pastry shop and cafe dates back to 1860. The charming colonial decor with aging walls and cracked floors adds to its allure, offering a glimpse into the city's past. Founded by French immigrant Charles Auguste Cave, it has been frequented by noble citizens and renowned figures throughout history.

For lunch, head to Restaurante Cervantes at Avenida Prado Junior 335 in Copacabana. This popular casual spot is renowned for its generous and flavorful sandwiches, each accompanied by a slice of pineapple. With both sit down and stand up bar areas, it offers a lively atmosphere where patrons can enjoy hearty meals and refreshing drinks. A must visit is Bar do Mineiro, located at Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno 99 in Santa Teresa. This classic local bar has been serving up traditional Brazilian dishes and drinks since the 1980s, making it a beloved institution for both locals and tourists. The menu features hearty plates of meaty dishes, including the award winning feijoada (a rich, slow cooked stew made with black beans, pork and beef). Recognized as the nation's premier comfort food, this delicious dish is traditionally prepared with smoked pork ribs, sausage, bacon and dried beef - typically served with white rice, garlicky collard greens, orange slices and toasted cassava flour (farofa). Pair it with the perfect caipirinha and you will be in heaven.

A wonderful place with a view is Aprazivel, found at Rua Aprazivel 62. This charming restaurant nestled high on the Santa Teresa hillside offers amazing views of downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay. The rustic terrace is adorned with grass roofed gazebos surrounded by lush tropical gardens, creating a serene ambiance frequented by toucans and monkeys. Guests can savor artisan Brazilian cuisine made with natural tropical ingredients while enjoying the experience. Note: the roasted hearts of palm with pesto sauce was out of this world. For superb seafood, make your way to Satyricon at Rua Barao da Torre 192 in Ipanema. Here, you will find tanks full of lobsters, oysters, and other mollusks, and an ice bed where the catch of the day rests. Everything comes out of the kitchen in simple, well prepared dishes like sea bream baked in salt and herbs or shredded king crab served with lemon and oil.

If you crave more treats from the sea, try Adega Perola at Rua Siqueira Campos 138 in Copacabana. Tucked away a few blocks from the beach, this joint sticks close to its Iberian roots, with wine jugs lining the high wall shelves and a selection of about one hundred tapas stewing in their respective marinades behind the glass bar window. Opened in 1957 by a Portuguese family, little has changed at this no frills boteco. Best sellers include sardines in vinegar with herbs and onions, octopus in tomato and onion sauce, plus marinated artichokes and goat cheese in pink pepper - all goes well with a glass of wine or a draft beer.

For my vegan friends, Teva can be found at Avenida Henrique Dumont 110 in Ipanema. This chic space offers creative dishes made with sustainable and organic ingredients. The industrial style setting creates a charming atmosphere, with an open kitchen adding to the appeal. The menu features a symphony of flavors, including fragrant pad thai with rice noodles and savory tofu, as well as truffled handmade pasta that delights the taste buds. Chef Daniel Biron carefully selects seasonal fresh ingredients from local producers, emphasizing conscious living and extraordinary taste.

Pabu Izakaya is located at Rua Humberto de Campos 827 in Leblon. This culinary gem presents a delightful fusion of Japanese flavors and artful craftsmanship. The menu boasts an array of delectable dishes, including the signature crispy salmon skin tacos that combine perfectly crisped salmon skin with warm tortillas for a delightful texture contrast. I washed it all down with a stellar gin and tonic with wasabi. Nearby at Rua Dias Ferreira 256 is Sushi Leblon. For more than four decades, this pioneering Japanese restaurant has been blending tradition and innovation in its cuisine. The menu features a variety of creative and contemporary dishes, with classics like tuna tartare with quail egg and black caviar, as well as sushi duos featuring quail egg with truffle oil and sea salt, and grilled scallop with lychee.

For dinner, head to the excellent Lasai at Largo dos Leoes 35 in Botafogo. With exceptional, vegetable led dishes from chef Rafa Costa e Silva, Lasai has all the ingredients of a standout restaurant. It currently holds two Michelin stars and in 2025, it made its long awaited debut on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Lasai serves just ten people around a single, L shaped chef’s counter - offering an intimate experience, with every guest sitting right in front of Rafa and his team. The 15 course tasting menu focuses on seasonal ingredients from chef’s own farm and small local producers. Note: be sure to book well in advance. Nearby at Rua Conde de Iraja 581 is the equally impressive Oteque. After gaining acclaim as one of the best chefs in Sao Paulo, Alberto Landgraf took his cooking to an even higher level at Oteque. His dedication to quality ingredients is clear in the fish tank in the open kitchen, which provides easy access to the freshest seafood possible. Chef’s meticulous tasting menus are always packed with creative dishes, precise techniques, layers of flavor and exacting textures. This two Michelin starred restaurant also offers one of the best wine programs in the country, focused on natural and organic varieties. Note: reservations are a must.

Chez Claude can be found at Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 in Leblon. Chef Claude Troisgros opened what is perhaps the most personal restaurant of his career in the same building that housed his first place in Rio after arriving from France in 1979. Chez Claude is like an edible scrapbook of his cooking career throughout the last half century, serving all the classics, such as scallops with hearts of palm, eggs with caviar and quail with chard, chives and bacon in grape sauce. The artisanal cocktails are crafted with fresh ingredients and unique flavors. Note: reserve ahead of time. Not far away at Avenida General San Martin 889 is Oro. This two Michelin starred restaurant has been making waves since its opening in 2010. Chef Felipe Bronze has gained acclaim for skillfully blending molecular techniques with Brazilian ingredients. Oro offers artfully plated tasting menus with wine pairings in a sleek and modern space.

My most memorable dining experience in Rio was at Oseille, located at Rua Joana Angelica 155 in Ipanema. Opened in 2025 by chef Thomas Troisgros (son of previously mentioned chef Claude Troisgros) and situated above his other restaurant (Toto), this contemporary space accommodates sixteen people sitting around an open kitchen. I opted for the 7 course tasting menu with wine pairing and it was tremendous. The culinary journey is inspired by chef's global experiences and the Troisgros family legacy. In addition to the magnificent cuisine, what made the night extra special was my conversation with chef Thomas, the generous wine pairing pours and the super cool music playlist. Note: reservations are crucial.

End your evening in Rio with a drink or two. Nosso can be found at Rua Maria Quiteria 91 in Ipanema. Cocktails are the main stars at this hip three floor bar and restaurant. At the large counter, head barkeep Daniel Estevan prepares classic recipes and signature creations such as the Ernesto (gin, black olive infusion, dry vermouth and lime) or his homage to the neighborhood, A la Ipanema (bourbon, vermouth, benedictine and bitters). Note: the bar is closed on Monday. For some of that local spirit (literally), make your way to Academia da Cachaca at Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 in Leblon. This renowned pub is known for its extensive selection of cachaca and caipirinhas. With around 80 different types of cachaca available, including barrel aged and artisan varieties, this lively bar showcases the diverse and delicious flavors of Brazil's famous spirit. Note: the bar is open daily from 12p.

Nearby at Rua Dias Ferreira 679 is Liz Cocktail & Wine. This trendy space is known for its casual setting and extensive cocktail menu, which includes both classic drinks and Hollywood movie inspired creations. The award winning mixologist Tai Barbin has curated an unconventional cocktail list that combines influences from around the world with signature creations. Despite its small size, the bar offers a charming ambiance and superb service. I enjoyed the Hibiscus (tequila, sake, luxardo and bitters). Note: the bar is closed on Monday. Finish up at locals favorite Bar Jobi, located at Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva 1166 in Leblon. Open since 1956, this classic pub offers a cozy interior and cold draft beer - the perfect way to end your day. Note: the bar is open daily from 11a.

WHERE TO STAY

Rio offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Hotel Fasano, located at Avenida Vieira Souto 80 in Ipanema. Across the street from the iconic Ipanema Beach, this stylish hotel is a short drive from the Botanical Gardens and the upscale shops in Leblon. Refined rooms come with free WiFi, flat screen TVs and minibars. Upgraded quarters add ocean views, separate living areas, espresso machines and wet bars. Amenities include a chic restaurant, a rooftop infinity pool, a poolside bar and a spa.

A second option is Hotel Emiliano, located at Avenida Atlantica 3804 in Copacabana. Across the street from the world famous Copacabana Beach, this contemporary hotel with a hip vibe is a short drive from Sugarloaf Mountain and Fort Copacabana. Modern rooms have warm styling and feature complimentary WiFi, flat screen TVs, sitting areas and posh bathrooms. Upgrades add desks, designer armchairs and ocean views. Other perks include a swanky restaurant with a vertical garden, a lobby bar and a spa, plus a rooftop infinity pool.

Rio dazzles with its vibrant culture, natural beauty, wonderful architecture and delicious cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning. Until next time, obrigado cidade maravilhosa.