WHAT TO DO
Portsmouth is a port city located on the Piscataqua River in the state of New Hampshire. American Indians of the Abenaki and other Algonquian language speaking nations, and their predecessors, inhabited the territory of coastal New Hampshire for thousands of years before European contact. The first known European to explore and write about the area was Martin Pring in 1603. The west bank of the harbor was settled by European colonists in 1630 and named Strawbery Banke, after the many wild strawberries growing there. At the town's incorporation in 1653, it was named 'Portsmouth' in honor of the colony's founder, John Mason. He had been captain of the English port of Portsmouth, Hampshire, after which New Hampshire is named. Once one of the nation's busiest ports and shipbuilding cities, Portsmouth expressed its wealth in fine architecture. It has significant examples of Colonial, Georgian and Federal style houses, some of which are now museums.
In the 20th century, the city founded a Historic District Commission, which has worked to protect much of the town's irreplaceable architectural legacy. In 2008, the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Portsmouth one of the 'Dozen Distinctive Destinations.' Portsmouth shipbuilding history has had a long symbiotic relationship with Kittery, Maine - across the Piscataqua River. In 1781, the naval hero John Paul Jones lived in Portsmouth while he supervised construction of his ship Ranger, which was built on nearby Badger's Island in Kittery. During that time, he stayed at the Captain Gregory Purcell house, which now bears Jones' name, as it is the only surviving property in the United States associated with him. The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, established in 1800 as the first federal navy yard, is on Seavey's Island in Kittery. Today, Portsmouth is noted for its coastal charm, historic architecture and vibrant restaurant culture.
Begin your adventure in the center of town at Market Square. This picturesque plaza is framed by the impressive North Church (with its soaring white spire) and distinguished brick buildings that include the venerable Portsmouth Athenaeum. Founded in 1817 as a private library, the Athenaeum now maintains more than 40000 volumes, and an archive of materials and photographs relating to local history, as well as historical artifacts. Its front doorway is flanked by a pair of cannons captured by Commodore Perry at the Battle of Lake Erie. On the third floor, the Randall Room Exhibition Gallery holds frequent exhibits covering subjects as varied as George Washington and Portsmouth's Georgian style gardens. More well preserved mercantile blocks continue down Market Street toward Portsmouth's active waterfront with its row of tugboats. Market Street is a favorite for shopping - boutiques, specialty shops, and galleries of fine arts and decorative works by local craftspeople fill the buildings.
For a good introduction to the city and all of its historic attractions, stop by the Portsmouth Historical Society at 10 Middle Street. This welcome center and cultural gateway features exhibitions that spotlight the art and history of the region, and large information panels feature the town's many historic houses and landmarks. Smaller exhibition galleries hold changing exhibits of local arts and historic artifacts. In the theater, you can watch the film 'Welcome to Historic Portsmouth' for insights into the city's four centuries. From there, make your way to the most popular attraction in town. Spread across a ten acre site, the Strawbery Banke Museum is named for the first settlement here on the bank of the Piscataqua River. From this 17th century foundation, Portsmouth grew into a major port and the houses gathered here represent its four hundred years of history. Adding to the historical variety, Strawbery Banke varies the interpretation and focus - some houses are furnished and decorated according to their era, some concentrate on the families that lived there, others are preserved to show how they were constructed, with cutaway displays and exhibits of tools, materials and decorative details. One is a duplex restored to two different centuries. Costumed interpreters and artisans demonstrate cooking, household skills, period crafts and boat building techniques. Note: most of the city's attractions are seasonal and only open to the public from May through October.
Now it's time to visit some of Portsmouth's historic homes. There are over a dozen houses (excluding Strawbery Banke) that are open to the public and I would like to share which ones should not be missed. Built in 1763 by a wealthy shipowner and merchant, the Moffatt Ladd House (154 Market Street) still contains original furniture and retains many of its early interior detail and decorative features. It is considered one of America's finest Georgian mansions. Tours of its well preserved interior begin in the Great Hall, with French scenic wallpaper dating from about 1820 and fine woodcarving. Because the original records of the house's construction still survive, a great deal is known about its history and the local artists responsible for its exceptional decorative details. Original family furnishings include outstanding examples of Portsmouth made and English furniture. The 18th century chestnut tree and the old fashioned gardens behind the house are delightful. Note: William Whipple, a signer of the Declaration of Independence lived here. The Wentworth Gardner House is at 50 Mechanic Street. This 1760 structure is one of the finest Georgian houses in the country. Elizabeth and Mark Hunking Wentworth were among Portsmouth's wealthiest and most prominent citizens, so no expense was spared in building this home. Note: the adjacent Tobias Lear House (not open to the public) is a hip roofed Colonial residence that was home to the family of George Washington’s private secretary.
The John Paul Jones House (not the gent from Led Zeppelin) can be found at 43 Middle Street. This former boardinghouse is where America's first great naval commander resided in Portsmouth. Jones, who uttered, 'I have not yet begun to fight' during a particularly bloody engagement with the British in the Revolutionary War, is believed to have lodged here while his warship Ranger was being built. Apart from its connection with Jones, the house, designated as a National Historic Landmark, is a fine example of Georgian architecture, both for its symmetrical exterior and its original paneling, moldings and carved woodwork. Examples of later Federal style decor show the changing tastes of the late 18th and early 19th century. An exhibit on the second floor spotlights the city's role as host of the Portsmouth Peace Treaty, a landmark agreement that ended the Russo Japanese War in 1905. Note: the treaty was engineered by President Theodore Roosevelt. The Warner House is located at 150 Daniel Street. Built in 1716 and the only surviving of the mansions that lined the road in colonial days, this Georgian brick house is best known to art historians for the oldest painted murals in America that are still in their original place. The murals line the hall stairway and throughout the house are exceptional examples of carved moldings and wood paneling.
A National Historic Landmark, the John Langdon House is at 143 Pleasant Street. Frequently listed as one of the finest Georgian homes in America, this residence from 1784 features ornate woodwork, and period decoration and furnishings that reflect the position and prosperity of a prominent Portsmouth merchant. When he built this house, John Langdon was President of the New Hampshire Senate, later becoming a delegate to the Constitutional Convention, a United States Senator and three term governor of New Hampshire. Among the visitors the Langdons welcomed to their home was President George Washington on his visit to the state in 1789. The Rundlet May House can be found at 364 Middle Street. Built by a Portsmouth merchant in 1807, this Federal style mansion includes connected outbuildings, a carriage barn and impressive gardens. It was a modern home for its day with central heating, an indoor well and the latest in kitchen improvements that included a Rumford range and roaster. Although the house has retained original features, such as its wall coverings and many pieces of furniture, it also reflects the lives of later generations into the 20th century.
Let's make a maritime move to the USS Albacore, located just north of the city center at 569 Submarine Way. Like a fish out of water, this 205 foot long submarine is now a beached museum on dry land. Launched from Portsmouth Naval Shipyard in 1953, the Albacore was once the world's fastest submarine. It housed a crew of 55 and was piloted around the world for 19 years without going to war. This research sub pioneered the American version of the teardrop hull form of modern submarines. Self guided tours show how the submarine operated and what life was like for the crew - audio recordings by former crew members bring the Albacore and its research mission to life. Note: a memorial garden in Albacore Park honors the sailors who lost their lives while serving on American submarines. From there, enjoy a leisurely stroll through Prescott Park. Along the banks of the Piscataqua River, this lovely green space includes beautiful gardens of perennial and annual flowers, a demonstration garden, performance space and public docks, as well as a place to sit on a bench and enjoy the flowers and harbor views. The park is known especially for its dazzling tulip displays in the spring and in summer for its beds of brilliant annuals. The Prescott Park Arts Festival brings music and theater performances each summer.
Conclude your tour of Portsmouth with a relaxing boat cruise or a little shopping. The best views of Portsmouth Naval Shipyard (1800), Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse (1877) and historic Fort Constitution (1791), which has guarded the entrance to Portsmouth Harbor since colonial times, are from the water. Harbor cruises begin at Portsmouth's downtown docks near the tugboats, where you can also board cruises to the Isles of Shoals, a small group of islands that are divided between New Hampshire and Maine. Harbor and river tours in a replica of the shallow drafted cargo sailing ships, called gundalows, which were used for local transport throughout the Colonial Era, depart from the Gundalow Docks in Prescott Park on Marcy Street. A very cool art gallery and boutique home goods store is Nahcotta, located at 110 Congress Street in the city center. Also cool is Salt Cellar at 7 Commercial Alley. The owner of this basement shop travels the world for his inventory of salts - for cooking, eating, bathing, body and health. For a magically fun experience, stop in to Deadwick's Ethereal Emporium at 19 Sheafe Street. Getting a little rusty with your spell casting or low on herbs for your latest potion? Presto, this marvelously macabre shop can supply all of your metaphysical needs. It also sells candles, ouija boards, taxidermy, witchcraft books and my favorite, travel good luck charms. If you fancy chocolate like I do, head to Byrne & Carlson Chocolatier at 121 State Street.
WHERE TO EAT
Portsmouth has several great places to eat, drink and be entertained. Start your day at Friendly Toast, located at 113 Congress Street. Whimsical furnishings set the scene for a hearty breakfast at this retro diner. A few doors away at 121 Congress Street is La Maison Navarre. This Parisian style cafe and pastry shop does yummy croissants, macarons, crepes and baguettes. Another fine spot is Ceres Bakery at 51 Penhallow Street. While named for the street of its original location, this bakeshop also honors the Roman goddess of agriculture. Here, bakers turn the fruits of Ceres’ harvest into breads, cookies and seasonal pastries. Just around the bend at 10 Commercial Alley is the always busy Elephantine Bakery. This artisan shop serves scratch made breads and pastries - I destroyed a chocolate almond croissant. For some darn good coffee, make your way to Kaffee Vonsolln, found close by at 79 Daniel Street. Along with quality coffee, you can enjoy a solid selection of teas, cookies and pastries. I thoroughly enjoyed an iced lavender latte.
For lunch, head down to the waterfront for fresh local seafood with a view at Surf Portsmouth, located at 99 Bow Street. Offering panoramas of the Piscataqua River, this popular place showcases Seacoast caught seafood in a comfortable setting. Dishes sport some global flair with haddock tacos, Portuguese seafood stew and wicked awesome spicy tuna sushi. Next door at 53 Bow Street is the River House. This easygoing eatery has an extensive seafood menu, plus drinks with a scenic deck on the river. The jumbo shrimp cocktail was not too shabby. For something other than creatures from the sea, try Street at 801 Islington Street. Just outside the city center, this trendy spot is an international street food haven. Locals throng industrial chic tables and barstools in the cavernous, brightly painted interior, noshing on sticky rice bowls, noodles and dumplings, burgers, falafel, empanadas and key lime tarts. The drinks menu is equally eclectic with Thai iced tea, black cherry soda, ginger beer and local microbrews. If you scream for ice cream, Annabelle's at 49 Ceres Street on the harbor is a must. Locals and tourists line up in droves for the town's best scoop - the homemade concoctions at this shop include regional nods like New Hampshire Pure Maple Walnut and Pumpkin Pie, traditional varieties like Dutch Chocolate and Lemon Sorbet, and eclectic faves like Yellow Brick Road (vanilla, pralines, roasted pecans and caramel swirls).
For dinner, make your way to The Wilder, located at 174 Fleet Street. This sophisticated gastropub kicks comfort food up a notch with staples of truffle and duck fat cheddar popcorn and kimchi aioli potatoes. The rotating craft cocktail list features unexpected ingredients like African bird’s eye chili and plum infused Japanese whisky. Note: the late night eats menu is available until midnight, a rarity in town. You will be transported to the Mediterranean when you dine at Cava (10 Commercial Alley), where the Old World atmosphere and wine list complement the menu of traditional tapas like patatas bravas and chargrilled octopus. Go with the four course tasting menu, it is divine. Across the way at 106 Penhallow Street is the equally impressive Moxy. This stylish corner spot specializes in small sharing plates, with a contemporary American twist. Expect anything from mini burgers, chili pepper cornbread and whoopie pie sliders to fried clams, oysters, calamari and scallops, accompanied by excellent martinis in a cozy candlelit interior enlivened with yellow and olive decor and green brick walls.
The Franklin can be found at 148 Fleet Street. From Matt Louis - also the chef and owner at Moxy - this raw bar offers a bounty of New England oysters, as well as some from Canada. Don’t miss the house made charcuterie at this modern tavern. An additional place for bivalve mollusks is Row 34, located at 5 Portwalk Place. This sleek space does perfectly chilled oysters and seafood dishes, and has a full bar with craft beers on tap. One establishment in town that should not be missed is Cure at 189 State Street. Constantly showered with accolades, owner and chef Julie Cutting's refined but cozy brick walled restaurant makes a romantic dinner spot. The menu revolves around New England cuisine 'revisited': pan roasted duck breast, maple glazed salmon, espresso stout braised short ribs, horseradish sour cream mashed potatoes, crispy skinned chicken and lobster bisque, all accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a superb cocktail list. Note: the restaurant is open daily from 5p and reservations are suggested.
My most memorable dining experience in Portsmouth was at the Black Trumpet, found at 29 Ceres Street on the harbor. This intimate waterfront bistro uses locally sourced produce and meat, and menu items feature homemade condiments and preserves. A James Beard Award semi finalist, chef Evan Mallett creates unique combinations - anything from house made sausages infused with cocoa beans to seared haddock with yuzu (an Asian citrus fruit) and miso, plus a very tasty seafood paella. The full menu is also available at its wine bar upstairs, which whips up equally inventive cocktails. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday and reservations are recommended.
Conclude your evening in Portsmouth with a drink and some entertainment. The Thirsty Moose Taphouse is at 21 Congress Street. This convivial spot has more than 100 beers on tap - leaning heavily toward New England brews - and knowledgeable staff that can walk you through them. Bites include poutine (a Montreal fave: fries drenched in cheese and gravy), fish tacos and burgers. Downstairs in the Moose Lounge you'll find live music on weekends, plus Wednesday trivia nights. Earth Eagle Brewings can be found at 175 High Street. Don't like the taste of hops? Then step into the rustic taproom at Earth Eagle, where the medieval style 'gruit' beers rely on herbs and spices, not hops, for flavor.
For some live music, head to The Press Room, located at 77 Daniel Street. Between the nightly live music (jazz to blues to folk to rock and roll), the tasty pub fare and the wooden booths, this is one of Portsmouth's best watering holes. Lastly, there is The Music Hall at 28 Chestnut Street. Built in 1878, this marvelous venue is one of the oldest continuously operating concert halls in the United States and has hosted vaudeville acts and greats, from Mark Twain and Buffalo Bill Cody to Wynton Marsalis. Today, it is the Seacoast region's hub for live concerts, theater, musicals, vintage Hollywood movies and art film screenings. Theater and concertgoers enter the beautifully restored theater through its Beaux Arts lobby to reach the elegant 895 seat auditorium, with its horseshoe balcony and painted ceiling.
WHERE TO STAY
Portsmouth offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is The Hotel Portsmouth, located at 40 Court Street. Set in an 1881 Queen Anne mansion, this stylish boutique hotel is a short walk from the Strawbery Banke Museum and Prescott Park. The airy rooms have contemporary decor and come with free WiFi, iPod docks and flat screen TVs. Upgraded quarters add fireplaces and private patios. Amenities include continental breakfast on the house.
A second option is Hotel Thaxter, located around the corner at 15 Middle Street. Set in a handsome brick church from 1860, this fifteen room boutique hotel is close to the John Paul Jones House and Market Square. The comfortable rooms with hardwood floors offer complimentary WiFi, flat screen TVs and sleek contemporary bathrooms. Upgrades add a living area. Other perks include the on site modern Japanese restaurant Nichinan.
Portsmouth is packed with fascinating history, charming architecture, coastal cuisine and natural beauty. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.
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