Luxembourg City

WHAT TO DO

Luxembourg City (aka Luxembourg) is the capital city of Luxembourg and the country's most populous commune. Majestically set at the confluence of the Alzette and Petrusse rivers in southern Luxembourg, it lies in the heart of Western Europe - surrounded by Belgium, France and Germany. The city, because of its location and natural geography, has through history been a place of strategic military significance. The first fortifications were built as early as the 10th century. In 1443, the Burgundians under Philip the Good conquered Luxembourg. Subsequently, the Spanish, the French, the Spanish again, the Austrians, the French again and the Prussians conquered the city. Despite Luxembourg's best efforts to remain neutral in the First World War, it was occupied by Germany in August 1914. The Grand Duchy was occupied again by the Nazis during the Second World War in May 1940. After the war, Luxembourg ended its neutrality.

Today, Luxembourg City is one of the de facto capitals of the European Union, as it is the seat of several institutions, agencies and bodies - including the Court of Justice of the EU. It is also one of Europe's most scenic capitals. Its stunning UNESCO listed Old Town is a warren of tunnels, nooks and crannies sheltering some excellent museums and cultural attractions, as well as superb restaurants. With plenty to see and do, Luxembourg City is sure to please.

Start your journey in Ville Haute, the Old Town of Luxembourg City. This charming district is centered around Place Guillaume II, a 13th century public square named after King William II. It hosts outdoor markets and open air events, making it a vibrant hub of activity in the heart of the city. Be sure to admire the bronze statue of Grand Duke William II in the center of the plaza as you explore the historic buildings and bustling market stalls. Nearby is the Cathedrale Notre Dame. Built between 1613 and 1621, Luxembourg's cathedral is most memorable for its distinctively elongated black spires, ornately carved Renaissance portal inside the main doorway and 19th century stained glass. Interior highlights include a tiny but highly revered Madonna and child idol above the altar and the graves of the royal family in the crypt.

Around the bend from the cathedral is the Chemin de la Corniche, Luxembourg's most popular attraction. Hailed as 'Europe's most beautiful balcony', this pedestrian promenade winds along the course of the 17th century city ramparts with picturesque views across the river canyon of the Grund and Clausen districts. Just beneath the clifftop is the Casemates du Bock, a subterranean defense system made up of miles of tunnels. The atmospheric honeycomb of rock galleries and passages was initially carved by the Spanish from 1644 onwards. They were extended by French engineer Vauban in the 1680s and again by the Austrians in the mid 18th century. Over the years the casemates have housed everything from garrisons to bakeries, and during both World Wars they sheltered thousands of residents.

Nestled in the heart of the Old Town, the Palais Grand Ducal stands as a stunning testament to history and architecture. Originally constructed in 1572 as the city hall, this magnificent turreted Renaissance building has undergone several transformations over the centuries. It became a government headquarters and eventually was designated as the official residence for the Grand Duke of Luxembourg in 1890. In summer, the palace opens for 50 minute guided tours (English available), mostly concentrating on family history. From the medieval Gothic dining room, the palace’s interior style morphs into splendid gilded romanticism upstairs. Note: tours must be booked online in advance.

Not far away is Place de la Constitution. Towering above this leafy square is the Monument of Remembrance, affectionately known as Gelle Fra (Golden Lady). Originally installed on Place de la Constitution in 1923 by sculptor Claus Cito, this 70 foot tall granite obelisk topped by a wreath bearing golden maiden commemorates the brave citizens who volunteered for service in the First World War. During the Nazi occupation in the Second World War, it was dismantled and partly salvaged. The Gelle Fra maiden remained missing until 1980, when she was discovered hidden beneath the main stand of the national football stadium. Located in the Kirchberg district, Fort Thungen is a partially reconstructed fortress originally built in 1732 by the Austrians and later extended by the Prussians. It now houses an intriguing museum showcasing the city's historic defenses from 1443 to 1903. Visitors can explore its underground galleries - sweeping views over the town unfurl from the rooftop viewing deck.

Next, make your way to the Luxembourg City History Museum at 14 Rue du St Esprit. Also known as Letzebuerg City Museum, it provides a captivating journey through over a thousand years of the city's history. Housed in four beautifully renovated 17th century buildings, it showcases original artifacts and models that bring to life the development of Luxembourg City. The museum features a large glass elevator that takes visitors on a six story vertical tour, offering views of the rock foundations and the Grund valley. Note: the museum is closed on Monday. Another impressive destination is the Mudam Museum of Modern Art, found at 3 Parc Drai Eechelen. It features a diverse collection and is set in a panoramic location on the walls of a former fort overlooking the Old Town. Designed by world renowned architect IM Pei (best known for his glass pyramid entrance to Paris' Louvre museum), its interiors are adorned with everything from photography to fashion, design and multimedia. Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

From there, head to the National Museum of History and Art at Marche aux Poissons in the Old Town. Also called MNHA or Feschmaart, it was established in 1845 by the Luxembourg Archaeological Society. The museum is home to a wealth of objects and artworks - it covers the three key areas: archaeology, history and art. The collection starts deep in an excavated rocky basement with exhibits of Neolithic flints, then sweeps you through Gallic tomb chambers, Roman mosaics and Napoleonic medals to an excellent if small art gallery. Be sure to check out the works of Luxembourgish expressionist artist Joseph Kutter. Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

The Grund district is a charming quarter nestled in the valley below the Old Town along the banks of the Alzette River. This historic area boasts cobblestone streets and ancient buildings, offering a picturesque setting for visitors to explore. Dominating the Grund riverbank is the Neumunster Abbey. Originally built by Benedictine monks in 1688 and expanded in 1720, this significant building has been transformed into a cultural center. Around the cloister are bronze sculptures by local artist Lucien Wercollier, who in 1942 refused to create Aryan artworks and was imprisoned by the Nazis in this building. Several other exhibition spaces surround a central atrium and a large river facing courtyard, a venue for outdoor performances.

Conclude your tour of Luxembourg City with a visit out to the Luxembourg American Cemetery, four miles east of the city center. Beautifully maintained, it is a poignant memorial dedicated to the brave American soldiers who sacrificed their lives during the Second World War, particularly in the Battle of the Bulge. Spanning an impressive fifty acres, this serene site is home to over 5000 graves, including that of General George Patton - who played a key role in Luxembourg's 1944 liberation. It's a humbling sight, with long rows of white crosses and Stars of David. At the entrance, a white stone chapel has a stained glass window with the insignia of US commands that operated in Luxembourg.

WHERE TO EAT

Luxembourg City has a number of great places to eat, drink and see live music. Start your day at Golden Bean, located at 23 Rue Chimay in the Old Town. This cozy cafe serves up a solid cup of coffee and dynamite pastries. Another go to spot is Coffee Fellows at 4 Pl de Paris. Found near the train station, this popular coffee shop has a welcoming atmosphere. If you fancy sweet treats as I do, make your way to Patisserie Hoffmann Porte Neuve. Located at 18 Av de la Porte Neuve in the heart of the Old Town, this charming bakery invites visitors to relax and savor delightful pastries, such as perfect croissants and delicious pain au chocolat, accompanied by coffee or tea. The selection of cakes is exceptional, with highlights including the Streusel Forre Fruits Rouges and delectable eclairs.

For lunch, head to Brasserie La Lorraine at 7 Pl d'Armes in the Old Town. This renowned restaurant on the square has gained a high end reputation due to its quality cuisine and excellent service provided by passionate staff. Its specialty lies in its delicious seafood dishes, which have contributed to its success as an elegant dining establishment in the heart of the city. Note: go with one of the seafood towers and a chilled bottle of Sancerre. Nearby on Place d'Armes at 2 Rue des Capucins is Brasserie du Cercle. This lovely spot features a diverse menu of Luxembourgish dishes including sausage in mustard sauce, Kniddelen (dumplings), Judd mat Gaardebounen (smoked pork collar and broad beans), Luxembourgish cooked ham, and Gromperekichelcher (potato fritters) with bacon, cheese and a fried egg.

An additional place for local cuisine is Brasserie Restaurant Um Dierfgen, located at 6 Cote d'Eich in the Old Town. This attractive space offers an enjoyable dining experience. It features a simple yet inviting decor with wooden tables and a sunny terrace across two floors. It's known for its extensive selection of local dishes, including traditional favorites like dumplings and sausage in mustard sauce, as well as more unique offerings such as Feierstengszalot (meat salad) and Tete de veau (calf's head). Kaempff Kohler can be found at 18 Pl Guillaume II. This gourmet shop was established in 1922 and stands as one of the finest family owned stores in the country. Located between Place d'Armes and Place Guillaume II, it boasts a large wine bar, exceptional cheese selection and legendary macarons.

For some afternoon delight, try Laduree at 7 Rue des Capucins on Place d'Armes. This tea room with Parisian roots is celebrated for its exquisite French macarons available in various flavors. It offers an opulent High Tea experience with ornate decor and elegant tableware. The interior exudes regal charm with gold trimmed accents and delicate chandeliers, creating a picturesque setting for indulging in beautifully presented treats. In Luxembourg, amidst the famous chocolatiers like Oberweis and Namur, stands the Chocolate House Nathalie Bonn. Located in front of the Palais Grand Ducal at 20 Rue du Marche aux Herbes, this chocolate haven offers locally produced chocolates that can also be enjoyed on site. The shop features a variety of sweet treats including cakes, cookies and divine artisanal chocolates.

For dinner, make your way to Restaurant Le Sud at 8 Rives de Clausen in the Clausen district. It offers an upscale dining experience with a mix of French and Luxembourgish cuisine. The elegant ground level restaurant and terrace, accessible by a glass lift, provide impressive city panoramas. The tasting menu features beautifully prepared dishes like the duck foie gras and black truffle risotto paired with local Mosel wine. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday. Back in the Old Town at 7 Rue du St Esprit is L'Annexe. This hidden gem presents refined French cuisine with a Mediterranean influence and features a serene terrace with stunning views of the Grund district. The white asparagus with veloute sauce was quite good. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday.

Located in the Grund district at 6 Plt Altmuenster is Um Plateau. This stylish eatery has a classy bar and a beautiful outdoor terrace. It is noted for its delectable dishes such as scallops with pea mousse and roasted salmon with baby vegetables. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday. If you're in the mood for sushi and then some, do visit Ryodo at 27 Rue Raymond Poincare. This refined dining destination elevates Japanese haute cuisine with a unique twist. Under the expert guidance of Michelin starred chef Ryodo Kajiwara, guests are treated to an exquisite tasting menu that showcases seasonal ingredients and culinary artistry. The attentive staff takes pride in explaining each dish, ensuring diners appreciate the thoughtfulness behind every creation. While sushi is featured, it’s just one part of a broader gastronomic journey. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday.

Mosconi, located in the Grund district along the Alzette River at 13 Rue Munster, is a haven for Italian cuisine enthusiasts. Boasting a prestigious Michelin star - this establishment, set in a charming house, offers an immersive journey (a degustation of eight pasta dishes) through the flavors of Italy. Helmed by the talented husband and wife duo, Ilario and Simonetta Mosconi, the restaurant prides itself on using authentic ingredients to craft an exquisite Italian menu: veal from Piedmont, truffles from Alba, lentils from Umbria and tomatoes from Sicily. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday. My most memorable dining experience was at Restaurant Clairefontaine, located at 9 Pl de Clairefontaine in the Old Town. With its sophisticated and upscale ambiance, it is a splendid choice for special occasions and celebratory dinners. Chef Arnaud Magnier's dedication to using high quality, locally sourced ingredients shines through in the gourmet French menu. Note: the restaurant is closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Conclude your evening in Luxembourg City with a drink or perhaps a show. Go Ten is located at 10 Rue du Marche aux Herbes in the Old Town. Celebrated for boasting one of the largest selections of gin and tonics in town, this stylish venue also offers an intriguing mix of Japanese and Peruvian cocktails that are sure to tantalize your taste buds. Note: the bar is open daily until 1a. Nearby at 34 Pl Guillaume II is Maya Luxembourg. With its contemporary decor, this establishment sets the perfect backdrop for an evening of relaxation and enjoyment. The bar boasts an impressive cocktail menu, featuring everything from classic concoctions to innovative signature drinks that showcase local flavors and ingredients. Note: the bar is closed on Monday. Also in the Old Town at 2 Rue de la Loge is Ennert de Steiler. This historic spot dates back to the 14th century and has been operating as a bar since 1842. The building features stone arches on the exterior and inside it offers a lively atmosphere with solid drinks. Note: the bar is open daily until 1a.

For wine aficionados, do not miss Vins Fins at 18 Rue Munster in the Grund district. This cozy wine bar offers a carefully curated selection of natural, organic and 'biodynamic' wines from various vineyards in France, Italy, Portugal and Spain. It features simple wooden tables and school chairs with a colorful terrace that exudes a holiday vibe. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday. Another nice spot is Vinoteca, located at 6 Rue Wiltheim in the Old Town. This charming wine bar is nestled in historic stone cellars, making it one of the city's oldest establishments. With an inviting summer terrace that boasts breathtaking views, this place offers a delightful ambiance for wine enthusiasts. Helmed by the acclaimed sommelier Rodolphe Chevalier, Vinoteca features an impressive selection of around 20 wines available by the glass, sourced from various regions across the globe. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday.

My favorite bar in town is Shinzo, located at 8 Grand Rue in the Old Town. This stylish cocktail bar was once a pharmacy and its name translates to 'heart' in Japanese. With its inviting wooden floors and a striking square bar surrounded by plush blue velvet stools, it offers an atmosphere that's both relaxed and sophisticated. Open from 11a until late on weekends, this spot is perfect for those looking to indulge in creative cocktails like the intriguing three stage drink - Root, Branch, Fruit. For a marvelous musical experience, take in a performance at the Philharmonie Luxembourg, also known officially as the Grande Duchesse Josephine Charlotte Concert Hall. This iconic hall hosts around 400 performances annually and has become one of Europe's leading concert venues. If you want to see a rock and roll show, check out the totally awesome music club Den Atelier. This venue holds up to 1200 people and its name means 'the workshop' in Luxembourgish, as it is located in a former Renault truck garage.

WHERE TO STAY

Luxembourg City offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Sofitel Le Grand Ducal, located at 35 Rue du Laboratoire. In a modern, glass fronted building overlooking the Vallee de la Petrusse park, this upscale hotel is a short walk from both the Palais Grand Ducal and the Casemates du Bock fortifications. Relaxed rooms offer free WiFi and minibars, plus flat screen TVs and Nespresso machines. Upgraded quarters add city or valley views and sitting areas. Amenities include the contemporary Mu restaurant and the trendy L’Observatoire cocktail bar with a resident DJ.

A second option is Le Royal Hotel, located at 12 Bd Royal in the Old Town. This deluxe property is not far from the Cathedrale Notre Dame and the Chemin de la Corniche promenade. Featuring complimentary WiFi and flat screen TVs, the sleek rooms also have city or park views. Upgrades add designer toiletries, plus tea and coffeemakers. Other perks include a restaurant and a piano bar, as well as a spa with a hammam, a sauna and an indoor pool.

Luxembourg City is pleasant and clean with fascinating history, natural beauty, impressive art and fabulous cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.