Kyoto

WHAT TO DO

Kyoto is the capital city of Kyoto Prefecture in the Kansai region of Japan's largest and most populous island of Honshu. It is one of the oldest municipalities in the country, having been chosen in 794 as the new seat of Japan's imperial court by Emperor Kanmu. The emperors of Japan ruled from Kyoto in the following eleven centuries until 1868. The capital was relocated from Kyoto to Tokyo after the Meiji Restoration. The modern municipality of Kyoto was established in 1889. The city was spared from large scale destruction during World War II and as a result, its prewar heritage has mostly been preserved. Today, Kyoto is considered the cultural capital of Japan and is a major tourist destination. It is home to numerous Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, palaces and gardens, some of which have been designated collectively as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. With a fascinating history, unique culture, delectable cuisine and amazing architecture - Kyoto is sure to please.

Begin your adventure in central Kyoto at Nijo Castle. The military might of Japan's great warlord generals, the Tokugawa shoguns, is amply demonstrated by the imposing stone walls and ramparts of their great castle. It was built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu. The ostentatious style of its construction was intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu's prestige and also to signal the demise of the emperor's power. After passing through the grand Karamon gate, you enter Ninomaru Palace, which is divided into five buildings with numerous chambers. The Ohiroma Yon no Ma (Fourth Chamber) has spectacular screen paintings. Don't miss the excellent Ninomaru Palace Garden, which was designed by tea master and landscape architect Kobori Enshu. Note: avoid crowds by visiting just after opening or shortly before closing. Next, make your way to the Imperial Palace. This was the home of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868, when the emperor and capital were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. It is located in the spacious Kyoto Imperial Park, an attractive green space in the center of the city that also encompasses the Sento Imperial Palace, which served retired emperors. The complex is enclosed by long walls and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. Note: visitors can see the palace buildings and gardens, but none of the buildings can be entered.

Nishi Honganji is a massive temple in the center of Kyoto. As headquarters of the Jodo Shin sect (True Pure Land), one of Japan's most popular Buddhist sects, it is a great place to experience contemporary Japanese Buddhism. Nishi Honganji was built in 1591 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, after the sect's former head temple, Ishiyama Honganji in Osaka had been destroyed by Oda Nobunaga due to the temple's interference in politics. Its two largest structures are the Goeido Hall, dedicated to Shinran - the sect's founder and the Amidado Hall, dedicated to the Amida Buddha, the most important Buddha in Jodo Shin Buddhism. The temple also displays some surviving masterpieces of architecture from the Azuchi Momoyama Period and early Edo Period, including the celebrated Hiunkaku Pavilion. Note: the temple is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The covered Nishiki Market is one of Kyoto’s real highlights, especially if you have an interest in cooking and dining. Commonly known as Kyoto no daidokoro (Kyoto’s kitchen) by locals, this is the place to see the wonderful foods that go into Kyoto cuisine. Take a stroll down its length and you'll wander past stalls selling everything from barrels of tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and Japanese sweets to wasabi salt and fresh sashimi skewers. The market is narrow and often busy, so try visiting early or later in the afternoon if you prefer a bit of space, but keep in mind many of the stalls close by 5p. There are more than one hundred shops and restaurants at Nishiki Market - here are some of my favorite spots and things to eat: Nishiki Yushin, Wagyu Sukiyaki Hiroshige, Sugi Honey Shop, Beef Sushi, Shrimp Tempura Skewer, Uoriki (skewered sea bream) and Konna Monja (soymilk donut). Free samples are on offer in many places, but refrain from eating while walking as it is considered impolite. Note: some stores also don't appreciate visitors taking photos, so it's a good idea to ask politely before snapping away.

From there, head to eastern Kyoto and the National Museum. This is the city's premier art museum and plays host to the highest level exhibitions in town. It was founded in 1895 as an imperial repository for art and treasures from local temples and shrines. The Heisei Chishinkan, designed by Taniguchi Yoshio and opened in 2014, is a brilliant modern counterpoint to the original red brick main hall building, which is currently closed for renovation. Note: exhibitions from the museum's permanent collection are being held during short periods of the year and display a wide variety of cultural properties, including archaeological relics, sculptures, ceramics, calligraphy, costumes and paintings. The rest of the year, the museum is used to stage special exhibitions on various themes. Across the street is one of my favorite temples in Kyoto - Sanjusangendo. This superb temple’s name refers to the 33 sanjusan (bays) between the pillars of this long, narrow edifice. The building houses 1001 wooden statues of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy); the chief image, the 1000 armed Senju Kannon, was carved by the celebrated sculptor Tankei in 1254. It is flanked by 500 smaller Kannon images, neatly lined in rows - the visual effect is stunning. Note: taking photos inside the temple is forbidden.

Kiyomizudera (Pure Water Temple) is one of the most celebrated temples in Japan. It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the wooded hills of eastern Kyoto and derives its name from the fall's waters. The temple was originally associated with the Hosso sect, one of the oldest schools within Japanese Buddhism, but formed its own Kita Hosso sect in 1965. In 1994, the temple was added to the list of World Heritage Sites. The Hondo (Main Hall) has a huge wooden platform that is supported by pillars and juts out over the hillside. It offers commanding views of the numerous cherry and maple trees below that erupt in a sea of color in spring and fall, as well as of the city in the distance. The main hall houses the temple's primary object of worship, a small statue of the eleven faced, thousand armed Kannon. Just below is the waterfall Otowa no taki, where visitors drink sacred waters believed to bestow health and longevity. Dotted around the precincts are other halls and shrines. At Jishu jinja, the shrine up the steps above the main hall, visitors try to ensure success in love by closing their eyes and walking sixty feet between a pair of stones. Note: the steep approach to the temple is known as Chawan zaka (Teapot Lane) and is lined with shops selling handicrafts, local snacks and souvenirs.

Nearby is the wonderful Higashiyama district. Nestled along the lower slopes of Kyoto's eastern mountains, it is one of the city's best preserved historic neighborhoods. Higashiyama is a great place to experience traditional old Kyoto, especially between Kiyomizudera Temple and Yasaka Shrine - where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city. Be sure to wander its two main streets, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. Continue walking until you reach Yasaka Shrine. Also known as Gion Shrine, it is one of the most famous shrines in town. Founded over 1350 years ago, this shrine is located between the Gion and Higashiyama districts. Its main hall combines the Honden (Inner Sanctuary) and Haiden (Offering Hall) into a single building. In front of it stands a stage with hundreds of lanterns that get lit in the evenings. Yasaka Shrine is well known for its summer festival, the Gion Matsuri, which is celebrated every July. Arguably the most famous festival in the country, it dates back over a thousand years and involves a procession with massive floats and hundreds of participants. Note: the shrine also becomes busy during the cherry blossom season around early April, as the adjacent Maruyama Park is one of the most popular cherry blossom spots in the city.

Gion is Kyoto's most famous geisha district, located around Shijo Avenue between the Yasaka Shrine in the east and the Kamo River in the west. It is filled with shops, restaurants and ochaya (teahouses), where geiko (Kyoto dialect for geisha) and maiko (geiko apprentices) entertain. Gion attracts tourists with its high concentration of traditional wooden machiya merchant houses. The most popular area of Gion is Hanamikoji Street from Shijo Avenue to Kenninji Temple. A pleasant place to dine, the street and its side alleys are lined with preserved machiya houses many of which now function as restaurants, serving Kyoto style kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine). Another scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa area which runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijo Avenue. The canal is lined by willow trees, high end restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. Note: many tourists visit Gion hoping to catch a glimpse of a geiko or maiko on their way to or from an engagement in the evenings or while running errands during the day. If you happen to spot a geiko or maiko, be respectful and no photos.

Founded in 1202 by the monk Eisai, Kenninji is the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. It is an island of peace and calm on the border of the boisterous Gion nightlife district and it makes a fine counterpoint to the worldly pleasures of that area. The highlight at Kenninji is the fine and expansive karesansui (dry landscape) garden. Visitors can also admire images of dragons painted on the interior sliding doors and a gilded folding screen adorned with one of the most famous images of the wind and thunder gods. Be sure to admire the twin dragons painted on the ceiling of the Dharma Hall. Not far away is Chionin Temple. A collection of soaring buildings, spacious courtyards and gardens, it serves as the headquarters of the Jodo sect, the largest school of Buddhism in Japan. Chionin was established in 1234 on the site where Honen, one of the most famous figures in Japanese Buddhism, taught his brand of Buddhism (Jodo or Pure Land Buddhism) and eventually fasted to death. Visitors will surely notice the temple when they come across its massive Sanmon Gate. Standing 80 feet tall and over 160 feet wide, it is the largest wooden temple gate in Japan and dates back to the early 1600s. Up a flight of steps near the main hall is the temple's giant bell, which was cast in 1633 and weighs a whopping 155000 pounds - it is the largest bell in Japan. Note: the bell is rung by the temple's monks 108 times on New Year's Eve each year.

Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) is a Zen temple along Kyoto's eastern mountains. In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today's temple, modeled after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), his grandfather's retirement villa at the base of Kyoto's northern mountains. The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa's death in 1490. Ginkakuji consists of the Silver Pavilion, half a dozen other temple buildings, a beautiful moss garden and a unique dry sand garden. It is enjoyed by walking along a circular route around its grounds, from which the gardens and buildings can be viewed. The interior of the Silver Pavilion is not open to the public. Note: despite its name, the Silver Pavilion was never covered in silver. Instead, it is believed that the name arose as a nickname more than a century after the building's construction to contrast it with the Golden Pavilion. Alternatively, it is explained that moon light reflecting on the building's dark exterior gave it a silvery appearance.

Next, make your way south to what is probably the most popular attraction in the city. Fushimi Inari Shrine is an important Shinto shrine in southern Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 765 feet and belongs to the shrine grounds. Fushimi Inari is the most important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. At the back of the shrine's main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate covered hiking trail, which starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. The donation amount starts around 400000 yen for a smaller gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate. Note: the hike to the summit of the mountain and back takes several hours, however, visitors are free to walk just as far as they wish before turning back. From there, head to the Fushimi sake district. This is a charming, traditional sake brewing district along the willow lined Horikawa River in southern Kyoto. Revered for the clean, soft water that flows in abundance from the river's underground springs, the district is home to nearly 40 sake breweries. Among the local breweries is industry giant Gekkeikan which was founded here in 1637. Many of the district's buildings preserve their traditional appearance with wood and white plaster walls. Note: a few of the breweries in the area are open to the public and offer shops where you can taste and purchase their products.

Conclude your tour of Kyoto with a visit to one more temple and shrine up north. Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) is a Zen temple in northern Kyoto whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the similarly named Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), built by Yoshimitsu's grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later. Kinkakuji is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond and is the only building left of Yoshimitsu's former retirement complex. It has burned down numerous times throughout its history including twice during the Onin War, a civil war that destroyed much of Kyoto; and once again more recently in 1950 when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk - the present structure was rebuilt in 1955. Note: the temple was built to echo the extravagant Kitayama culture that developed in the wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during Yoshimitsu's times. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is one of the most important of several hundred shrines across Japan that are dedicated to Sugawara Michizane, a scholar and politician who was unfairly exiled by his political rivals. A number of disasters were attributed to Michizane's vengeful spirit after his death in exile and these shrines were built to appease him. Sugawara Michizane is associated with Tenjin, the kami (Shinto god) of learning. Consequently, many students visit Kitano Tenmangu to pray for success in their studies. Michizane loved plum trees and one tree, called tobiume or flying plum tree, is said to have followed him from Kyoto to his exile in Kyushu. Because of this, a plum tree can always be found standing in front of the offering hall of Tenmangu shrines.

WHERE TO EAT

As Japan's former capital and seat of the imperial court for over a millennium, Kyoto offers a rich culinary tradition. The local food culture is diverse and ranges from aristocratic kaiseki course dinners to vegetarian shojin ryori of monks. Kaiseki ryori has its origin in the tea ceremony, but later evolved into an elaborate dining style popular among elite circles. Kyoto style kaiseki ryori (kyo kaiseki) is particularly refined, placing an emphasis on subtle flavors and local, seasonal ingredients. A kaiseki meal has a prescribed order of courses which is determined by the cooking method of each dish. Whereas kaiseki developed out of the affluence of the aristocrats, shojin ryori developed from the austerity of Buddhist monks. Prohibited from taking the life of other living creatures, Buddhist monks had to make do without meat or fish in their diet. Consisting of strictly vegetarian dishes, shojin ryori can nonetheless be tasty and filling. A common ingredient in shojin ryori is tofu, which is a local specialty of Kyoto.

A fine place to start your feasting is Gion Karyo. Take an old Kyoto house, make it comfortable for modern diners, serve excellent, reasonably priced kaiseki and you have Karyo’s recipe for success. The chef and servers are welcoming and an English menu makes ordering a breeze. There are counter seats where you can watch the chef working and rooms with horigotatsu (sunken floors) for groups. Another splendid spot for kaiseki is Giro Giro Hitoshina. It takes traditional kaiseki and strips any formality so you're left with great food but in a boisterous atmosphere and with thousands more yen (Japanese currency) in your pocket. On a quiet lane near Kiyamachi dori street, things liven up inside with patrons sitting at the counter around the open kitchen chatting with chefs preparing inventive dishes. Note: the seasonal menu consists of eight courses. For dynamite noodles, head to Omen Nippon. This small joint serves a variety of healthy set meals along with the signature omen udon noodles served in a broth with a side of fresh vegetables.

Also excellent is Ramen Miyako Gion. After a long day of sightseeing there is nothing better than a hearty bowl of ramen and this place is one of the best in town. There's a choice of rich broths (pork, chicken, soy, miso) and the gyoza dumplings are a must. If you're in the mood for something sweet, try the nearby Zen Cafe. Nestled in the heart of Kyoto's geisha district, this cafe serves traditional Japanese sweets and desserts in a stylish contemporary setting. Living up to its name, the quiet and cozy space is styled like a modern art gallery and is a great place to sip on green tea while sampling delicate and seasonal treats such as kuzumochi (a jelly like mochi cake). Zen is an oasis of sophisticated calm among the hustle and bustle of Gion. If you fancy tea as I do, be sure to visit Ippodo Tea. This old style tea shop sells some of the best Japanese tea in the city and you'll be given an English leaflet with prices and descriptions of each one. Note: its matcha makes a marvelous souvenir. For one more yummy take home gift, don't miss Malebranche Kyoto Kitayama. This shop makes and sells the famous okoicha langue de chat biscuit Cha no Ka, which is made with high quality matcha that is used as koicha in tea ceremonies.

Vegetarian cuisine plays a part in all major Kyoto temples and one of the most scenic restaurants in which to sample it is in the southwestern section of Daitokuji. The monastic shojin ryori cuisine at Izusen Daijiin is served in luminous red lacquer bowls at low tables in the temple garden. An additional spot for tofu is Yudofu Kisaki. Tempura and tofu hot pots cooked at the table are staples at this attractive two story restaurant along the tree lined Philosopher's Path, close to the Silver Pavilion. Although some dishes include meat, this is essentially a tofu house whose cuisine is centered on fresh vegetables, including plenty of pickles and seaweed. A short walk west of Nanzenji's middle gate, Junsei specializes in yudofu (simmered tofu) served in the traditional Kyoto kaiseki style. The beautiful Edo period building sits among wonderful sculpted gardens.

When the sun sets, make your way to Pontocho. There are few streets in Japan that rival this narrow pedestrian only walkway for atmosphere. Not much to look at by day - the street comes alive at night, with wonderful lanterns, traditional wooden exteriors and elegant locals disappearing into the doorways of elite old restaurants and bars. One such establishment is Pontocho Robin. An adventurous menu sets this restaurant inside a 150 year old town house apart from its competition. The chef here goes to the market daily and improvises based on what's fresh. Charcoal walls, wooden staircases and a great view of the Kamo River provide an elegant setting for dishes like sea urchin in wasabi broth, grilled river fish and the popular kami nabe, a hot pot made of treated paper and cooked on an open flame at your table. Close by is Pontocho Suishin. This restaurant's black and white latticed storefront with a lantern above the door conceals a vegetable lover's paradise. The dining area is raised with sunken seating, allowing customers to view the busy chefs in the open kitchen. Note: for a survey of typical Kyoto dishes, opt for the Obanzai course menu.

For top notch sushi, do try Den Shichi. This is one of the best reasonably priced sushi spots in Kyoto. It’s a classic - long counter, bellowing sushi chefs and fantastic fresh fish. Note: it's almost always busy and doesn't take reservations. My favorite place for sushi in town is the amazing Sushi Saeki. A stunning garden landscape, expansive luxurious space and cuisine filled with the fastidious modern touches of a skilled chef - this omakase (chef's choice) experience is not to be missed. Once seated, each guest is greeted by an exquisite porcelain plate, hand crafted by Gen Emon Kiln especially for Chef Saeki - all with different designs of flowers, trees and other motifs (I had Mt Fuji). The degustation course involves seven appetizer dishes followed by eight nigiri sushi morsels atop red vinegar rice and a rolled sushi delicacy called torotaku - combining buttery fatty tuna with the refreshing crunch and flavor of takuan pickled daikon radish. One dish that will delight your palate is the chef’s signature bowl of sea urchin. Sushi rice in a ceramic bowl is topped with crispy seaweed and covered with a generous helping of rich, creamy bafun uni from the east coast of Hokkaido. Note: reservations are essential.

Established in 1980, Kushi Tanaka can be found in a secluded back alley in the Karasuma district, identifiable by its red noren (curtains) facade. This outstanding restaurant specializes in one thing - an omakase course menu featuring kushiage, Osaka’s beloved panko breaded and deep fried meat and vegetable skewers. Chef Tanaka infuses each dish with creativity and rich flavors, using extra fine panko breadcrumbs to coat seafood, pork and vegetables. Tanaka's carefully curated menu reflects his culinary philosophy. Some skewers invite guests to savor the distinct textures and flavors of individual ingredients, such as plump shrimp tails or juicy mushrooms. Others explore the diverse possibilities of fried cuisine, such as cheese and basil stuffed tomato kushiage. Note: reservations are recommended. Equally impressive is Kikunoi Roan, located in central Kyoto. This intimate space is the perfect place to experience the wonders of kaiseki. The chef takes an experimental and creative approach and the results are a wonder for the eyes and palate. An added bonus is they offer a fine selection of sake. Note: be sure to reserve well in advance.

Nijo Minami is the legacy of Chef Minami Kengo, who trained for twenty five years under master chefs like Matsui Shinshichi and Kato Hiroyuki - considered to be two of the greatest chefs in modern Japanese cuisine - before opening his own Michelin recognized restaurant. Here, you’ll have a chance to try rare seasonal dishes like whole female red crab from northern Hyogo Prefecture and thinly sliced pike conger in white miso. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday. Funaokayama Shimizu is a Michelin starred kaiseki restaurant renowned for its exceptional rice, cooked using pure Kyoto groundwater. Chef Shimizu personally selects the rice and prepares seasonal dishes with precision, ensuring each course complements the flavors of the rice. Noguchi Tsunagu offers innovative kaiseki cuisine in Kyoto's historic Higashiyama district. Chef Noguchi blends traditional and contemporary elements, using premium ingredients like Japanese black beef and local dishes and specialties. The intimate setting and artful presentation create an unforgettable dining experience, earning the restaurant a Michelin star in 2021.

Godan Miyazawa in central Kyoto offers an innovative omakase dining experience infused with the elegance of a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Chef Masato Miyazawa’s menu, which changes daily, highlights seasonal ingredients and inventive techniques. The restaurant's focus on detail, from beautiful plating to the preparation of three different bowls of rice, provides a cultural and educational culinary journey. Note: the restaurant is closed on Tuesday. My most memorable dining experience was at Ogawa. This Michelin starred kaiseki restaurant provides an intimate dining experience that preserves the traditions of Japanese cuisine while introducing subtle contemporary twists. Chef Ogawa's dedication to seasonal ingredients is evident in his meticulously crafted dishes that feature ingredients from every corner of Japan. Menu highlights included rice topped with sea urchin, duck meat with foie gras, crab stew and wild mushroom tempura. The serene ambiance, coupled with sensational service and tremendous food makes for an unforgettable experience. Note: be sure to book well in advance.

Conclude your evening in Kyoto with a drink or two. Overlooking one of the prettiest stretches of Kiyamachi dori street, Bar K6 has a great selection of single malts and some of the best cocktails in town. Note: the bar is closed on Monday and Tuesday. Another solid spot is Bee's Knees. Speakeasy style cocktail bars have been popping up in Kyoto of late and this one hits the mark with its 'secret entrance' (look for the subtle bee sign), pressed metal ceilings, dark wood and dim lighting. Friendly bartenders mix up Prohibition era classics with a twist - try the matcha tiramisu or the smoked mojito with cherry blossom wood smoke. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday. Tucked away in the quiet backstreets of central Kyoto is Bar Rocking Chair. This dimly lit, dark wood cocktail joint is a good choice for an artisanal adult beverage. Set up in a converted machiya (traditional Japanese townhouse), there's no menu here but the smartly dressed barkeeps speak a little English and will try to customize something to your taste. Note: the bar is closed on Tuesday.

If you're in the mood for gin, make your way to Nokishita 711. The sign inside says 'Kyoto Loves Gin' and if you do too, you won't want to miss this quirky bar of liquid cuisine. Owner Tomo infuses gin with interesting ingredients such as bamboo and smoked tea, and mixes up delicious cocktails with unique flavors - black sesame, yuzu pepper and truffle honey. There's a great range of gins from around the world. Note: the bar is open daily from 3p. For lots of sake, head to Sake Bar Yoramu in the Karasuma district. Named for Yoram, the Israeli sake expert who runs it, this bar is highly recommended for anyone after an education in Japanese rice wine. It’s very small and can only accommodate nine people. If you are not sure what you like, go for the sake tasting set of three. Note: the bar is closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Finish up at Ki Bar, located along the Kamo River on lovely Pontocho alley. This small, foreign run haunt serves up a solid selection of Japanese whiskies.

WHERE TO STAY

Kyoto offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Hotel The Mitsui, located in central Kyoto. Situated on the site of the Kyoto home of the Kitake - the executive branch of the Mitsui Family, this tranquil luxury property is adjacent to Nijo Castle and is not far from Nishiki Market. Spacious, warmly decorated rooms have flat screen TVs, Bose audio systems and designer toiletries, plus sitting areas, free WiFi and castle views. Upgraded quarters add separate living rooms. Amenities include the elegant Toki restaurant and posh Garden bar, plus a tea ceremony alcove, a private onsen and a thermal spring spa.

A second option is The Ritz Carlton, located nearby in central Kyoto. Set along the banks of the Kamo River and with views of the Higashiyama mountains, this luxe hotel with a serene vibe is close to the vibrant Gion district and Yasaka Shrine. Elegant rooms feature complimentary WiFi, flat screen TVs and marble bathrooms. All come with garden, river or mountain views. Upgrades add living rooms. Other perks include 4 refined restaurants, 1 serving Italian fare and a polished bar. There is also an indoor pool and a deluxe spa.

Kyoto fascinates with its unique culture, incredible history, wonderful architecture and delicious cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning. Until next time, doumo arigato gozaimasu.