Cairo

WHAT TO DO

Cairo is the capital and largest city of Egypt, home to more than 10 million people. The Greater Cairo metropolitan area is one of the largest in the world by population with over 22 million people. It is located in northern Egypt along the Nile River. The area that would become Cairo was part of ancient Egypt, as the Giza pyramid complex and the ancient cities of Memphis and Heliopolis are nearby. Situated near the Nile Delta, the predecessor settlement was Fustat following the Muslim conquest of Egypt in 641. Subsequently, Cairo was founded by the Fatimid Caliphate in 969. During the Fatimid period Fustat reached its zenith in size and prosperity, acting as a center of international trade and as the area's main port on the Nile.

Under the Ottomans, Cairo was the second largest city in the empire, behind Constantinople. When Napoleon arrived in Cairo in 1798, the city's population was at half a million people. The French occupation was short lived as British and Ottoman forces, including a sizable Albanian contingent, recaptured the country in 1801. The British vacated Egypt two years later, leaving the Ottomans and the Albanians jostling for control of the country. Continued civil war allowed an Albanian named Muhammad Ali to ascend to the role of commander and eventually viceroy of Egypt in 1805. Until his death in 1848, Muhammad Ali instituted a number of social and economic reforms that earned him the title of founder of modern Egypt.

In 1882 the British established firm influence over Egypt at the expense of the Egyptians, the French and the Ottoman Empire, whose already weak authority became nominal. The British occupation was intended to be temporary, but it lasted well into the 20th century. Nationalists staged large scale demonstrations in Cairo in 1919, five years after Egypt had been declared a British protectorate. Nevertheless, this led to Egypt's independence in 1922. British troops remained in the country until 1956. During this time, urban Cairo, spurred by new bridges and transport links, continued to expand to include the upscale neighborhoods of Garden City and Zamalek. In 1979 the historic districts of Cairo were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Many bucket lists include a trip to Egypt, and Cairo - the city of a thousand minarets - is at the center of it all. This hustling and bustling metropolis provides a memorable experience for the adventurous traveler. Begin your journey in the heart of downtown Cairo at Tahrir Square. Also known as Liberation Square, it captivated the world's attention during the 2011 Egyptian revolution, when millions of Egyptians converged here to oust then president Hosni Mubarak. On a normal day, it’s just your average giant traffic circle, albeit one where half a dozen major arteries converge. The main reason you'll pass through is to visit the Egyptian Museum. One of the world’s most important collections of ancient artifacts, the Egyptian Museum takes pride of place on the north side of the square.

Inside this domed, oddly pinkish building, the glittering treasures of Tutankhamun and other great pharaohs lie alongside the grave goods; mummies, sarcophagi, jewelry and toys of Egyptians whose names are lost to history. To walk around the museum is to embark on an adventure through time. A treasure trove of antiquities, it boasts an impressive collection of around 120000 artifacts - including the iconic Golden Mask of King Tut. Some display cards have become obsolete as new discoveries have busted old theories. Also, the collection has outgrown its sensible layout, as, for instance, Tutankhamun’s enormous trove and the tomb contents of Tanis were both unearthed after the museum opened in 1902. Note: most pieces are still on display, although some, including Tut's mask are being moved to the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) in nearby Giza.

From there, head to the impressive National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC). This megalithic building, sitting behind a massive white stone plaza, is the first museum in the Middle East that focuses solely on the ancient Egyptian civilization, covering all the different historical periods that encompass Egypt's history. It is also the home of royal mummies, who were transported by royal procession (Pharaohs' Golden Parade) to the museum in 2021. The lower level of the museum houses the mummies of 22 royal figures from Egypt's 17th to 20th dynasties, including famous pharaohs like Ramesses II, Hatshepsut and Thutmose III. Other notable mummies on display are those of Amenhotep I, Seti I and Ahmose Nefertari. Note: the museum is open daily from 9a.

Another splendid institution is the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA). Set in a beautifully restored building, it holds one of the world’s finest collections of Islamic art and is Egypt's (and one of the entire Middle East's) most wonderfully curated museums. What’s on display is only a sliver of the 80000 objects the museum owns, but the selected items are stunning. On your right as you enter are architectural details - frescoes, carved plaster so fine it looks like lace, an intricate inlaid wood ceiling and ceramics grouped by dynasty. On your left, pieces are grouped by function and medium: medical tools, astrolabes, some breathtaking carpets, illuminated Qurans and even headstones. There are also rare manuscripts that tell the story of Islamic civilization across various regions. Note: the museum is open daily from 9a.

Next, make your way to Islamic Cairo for a rich historical and cultural experience. A popular district to explore on foot, it is home to Khan el Khalili bazaar - a vibrant maze of spice shops, souvenir vendors and tea rooms, plus pedestrianized Al Moez street, lined with medieval architecture. The area’s many mosques include Al Azhar, founded in 970 and Al Hakim, known for its soaring minarets. Khan el Khalili is a bustling souk that offers a wide array of souvenirs, crafts, jewelry, clothing and spices. Despite its touristy nature and the persistent calls to browse the merchandise, a visit to this historic market is an essential part of experiencing Cairo. The winding alleys are filled with enticing items such as incense sticks, tea cups and mini hookahs or shishas.

Al Azhar Mosque, situated in the heart of Islamic Cairo, is not only one of the oldest mosques but also a renowned center for Sunni Islamic learning. Its rich history dates back to 970 and it has evolved into a major hub for Islamic education. The mosque's stunning architecture, including minarets and domes, attracts history enthusiasts and travelers interested in Islamic art and architecture. Note: guided tours are available to delve into its historical significance and role in Islamic education. The adjacent Al Azhar Park offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. The park features manicured gardens, fountains, cafes, restaurants and an open air theater. With its traditional Islamic architecture and stunning views, it's a unique oasis in the center of urbanized Cairo.

Not far away is the Citadel. Perched on top of a hill, it was constructed by Saladin in 1176 as a fortification against the Crusaders and was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 years. It boasts a few terraces with commanding Cairo views - on a clear day you'll see Giza's Pyramids poking up in the distance. The Citadel houses several mosques, including the Mosque of Muhammad Ali. Also known as the Alabaster Mosque, this magnificent Ottoman style structure from 1830 is celebrated for its opulent Islamic decorations, domes and minarets. The interior has twinkling chandeliers and luridly striped stone, with the main dome a rich emerald green. Note: Muhammad Ali lies in the tomb on the right as you enter the mosque.

The Mosque Madrasa of Sultan Hassan, located near the Citadel in Islamic Cairo, is a remarkable architectural marvel from the 14th century. This grand complex has towering minarets and intricate details that showcase early Mamluk architecture. Beyond the striking recessed entrance, a dark passage leads into a peaceful square courtyard surrounded by 4 soaring iwans (large vaulted halls). The iwans were dedicated to teaching the four main schools of Sunni Islam. At the rear of the eastern iwan, an especially beautiful mihrab (niche in mosque indicating direction of Mecca) is flanked by stolen Crusader columns. To the right, a bronze door leads to the sultan’s mausoleum. An additional mosque that is not to be missed is Al Emam El Hussein Mosque - it is one of the most sacred sites in Egypt. It is believed to enshrine the head of Imam Hussein, a grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.

Egypt's heritage goes back 5000 years and ancient Egypt is what draws the tourists. Simply put, one cannot visit Cairo without seeing the Pyramids of Giza. Located near Cairo on the west bank of the Nile, Giza is famous for its iconic Egyptian monuments. The Giza Plateau is home to 3 massive pyramids built as royal tombs. The last remaining wonder of the ancient world; for nearly 4000 years, the extraordinary shape, impeccable geometry and sheer size of the Giza Pyramids have amazed travelers from around the globe. Most visitors will head straight to the 4 most famous sights - the Great Pyramid of Khufu, the Pyramid of Khafre, the Pyramid of Menkaure and the Sphinx. Note: for those who want to explore further, the desert plateau surrounding the pyramids is littered with tombs, temple ruins and smaller satellite pyramids.

The oldest pyramid in Giza and the largest in Egypt, Khufu’s Great Pyramid stood 480 feet high when it was completed around 2570 BC. Khafre, the second pyramid, seems larger than that of Khafre's father, Khufu. At just 450 feet high, it’s not, but it stands on higher ground and its peak is still capped with the original polished limestone casing. Originally all 3 pyramids were totally encased in this smooth white stone, which would have made them gleam in the sun. At 215 feet, Menkaure is the smallest pyramid of the trio, only about one tenth the bulk of the Great Pyramid. Reclining in front of the pyramids is the Great Sphinx. Known in Arabic as Abu al Hol (Father of Terror), this famous limestone statue of a man with the body of a lion was dubbed the Sphinx by the ancient Greeks because it resembled their mythical winged monster who set riddles and killed anyone unable to answer them. A geological survey has shown that it was most likely sculpted from the bedrock at the bottom of the causeway during Khafre’s reign, so it probably portrays him. Note: some scholars suggest it may be his father, Khufu.

Conclude your tour of Cairo with a visit to the recently opened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM). Located about one mile from the Giza Pyramid Complex, it is the largest museum in the world for a single civilization. The GEM houses an impressive collection of Egyptian artifacts from various periods of the Egyptian civilization, from the Predynastic Period to Coptic Egypt, with an estimated total of over 100000 artifacts - including the complete Tutankhamun collection comprising 5400 pieces. Some newly restored pieces will be displayed for the first time, such as the second solar ship of Khufu. The Great Hall of the GEM houses a colossal statue of Ramesses II and the Grand Staircase connects the 12 main exhibition halls. Note: the museum is open daily from 9a.

WHERE TO EAT

Cairo has several great places to eat. Both of the hotels I stayed at had fantastic breakfast which I enjoyed most mornings. Another solid spot to start your day is Oldish, located downtown at 20 Mohammed Mahmoud. This charming cafe offers a relaxed atmosphere and globally inspired comfort food. It features both indoor and outdoor seating with a brick lined courtyard providing a secluded and pleasant space reminiscent of an artsy vintage house. Try the ful medames, a breakfast dish of fava beans stewed with tahini and seasoned with garlic, olive oil, cumin and lemon. Ful has been an Egyptian staple as far back as the 4th century where the beans were buried over embers to slow cook. Also nice is Holm Cafe, found at 14 Omar Al Khayam in Zamalek. This cozy spot with a green facade is known for its delicious baked goods, fresh juices and coffee.

Zooba is at 16 July 26 street in Zamalek. This popular spot offers a gourmet twist on traditional Egyptian street food using fresh, local ingredients. The menu features dishes like whole grain koshary, chicken liver hawawshi and sakalans sandwiches served with freshly baked bread. Note: koshary is considered to be the national dish of Egypt. This modern staple combines rice, lentils, macaroni, chickpeas, fried onions and vermicelli noodles topped with a spicy tomato sauce and seasoned with lemon, vinegar and chili. In Cairo, Abou Tarek is the place to go for koshary. Located downtown at 16 Marouf street, this must visit spot has been serving its specialty since 1935. Nearby at 15 Hoda Shaarawy street is Felfela. This popular vegan restaurant offers dishes like tamiya (fava bean fritter), hummus (chickpea dip), besara (fava bean dip), ful (stewed fava bean), tahini (ground sesame seed dip) and baba ghanoush (roasted or grilled eggplant dip).

El Fishawy Cafe, a historic establishment dating back to 1797, is a beloved spot in Cairo's bustling Khan el Khalili bazaar. Its classic decor, featuring ornate lanterns and arabesque furniture against yellow ochre walls, creates an ambiance that harks back to earlier times. This family owned cafe offers an authentic Egyptian experience with sweet mint tea and a variety of fruit flavored shishas. Also found within Khan el Khalili is Naguib Mahfouz Cafe. This classic place offers a captivating experience that transports visitors to ancient Egypt. Named after the esteemed Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz, it has been serving guests since 1989 and is celebrated for its exceptional hospitality.

If you fancy something sweet, do visit Mandarine Koueider at 17 Shagaret Al Dor in Zamalek. This renowned patisserie and dessert brand has been a fixture in Cairo since 1928. It offers an impressive selection of local desserts and freshly made ice creams with flavors ranging from traditional options like chocolate and pistachio to more adventurous choices such as tiramisu and passion fruit. With close to 100 years of history, Mandarine Koueider is celebrated for its high quality pastries, chocolates and gourmet desserts. Note: there is a shop inside the newly opened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) in Giza.

Cairo Kitchen is at El Aziz Othman in the vibrant Zamalek district, which has become a hub for innovative restaurants and specialty shops. It offers a modern interpretation of traditional Egyptian cuisine, attracting both locals and visitors alike. Its menu features classic dishes with a contemporary twist, including popular options like lentil soup, beef goulash and Egyptian meze (a selection of small, shareable cold and hot dishes). Wash it all down with a glass of chilled hibiscus tea. Situated along the Nile at Boulaq Num 4 is Paprika Restaurant. This long standing spot has been around since the 1970s, offering oriental Egyptian cuisine and international dishes. It provides an upmarket and sophisticated ambiance with soft jazz music in the background. The menu features hearty options like charcoal grilled kofta and kebab hala with rice.

Nestled close to the Egyptian Museum at 59 Al Falki street, Fasahet Somaya is a charming eatery that feels like stepping into a warm family gathering. The inviting bright blue door beckons visitors inside, where the decor evokes a hint of the Greek Isles while remaining distinctly Egyptian. Here, chef and owner Somaya Al Asyoty serves up authentic homemade dishes that have garnered admiration over her decade long journey as a local favorite. Note: the restaurant only opens for 2 hours from 5-7p with a daily delicious set menu. Another special place is Zeeyara Restaurant, located at 114 Al Moez Ldin Allah Al Fatmi in the historic Gamaleya district. This hidden gem can be found on the roof terrace of the boutique hotel Le Riad Hotel de Charme. It provides a peaceful atmosphere to enjoy delicious meals and relax while surrounded by friendly and attentive staff. I enjoyed the house favorite camel meatballs and refreshing Egyptian mint tea.

My most memorable dining experience was at Abou El Sid Restaurant, located at 157 July 26 street in Zamalek. With its Arabian palace esque decor, this joint is the quintessential authentic Egyptian cuisine experience. I opted for the mixed grill platter along with the circasian chicken in walnut sauce. For the brave patron, this is the place to try the Egyptian speciality of Hamam Mahshi (roasted stuffed pigeon with rice). An additional spot that I enjoyed was Zaza Cuisine by the Nile, located on the Mamsha promenade in front of the Fairmont Nile City Hotel. This popular place on the river is always packed with locals. The decor is eye catching and elegant with both indoor and outdoor seating options - either facing the Nile or along the walkway. I sampled several different fruit juices and destroyed a number of hawawshi (crispy pita pockets stuffed with a tantalizing minced meat mixture with onions, garlic, peppers and fresh herbs). Note: the shisha service was excellent.

End your evening in Cairo with a stroll along the Nile or perhaps an evening boat ride on the famous river. Mamsha Ahl Misr or 'People of Egypt Walkway' is a two level promenade next to the Nile Corniche that offers both locals and tourists an opportunity to enjoy the Nile upfront. It has shops, restaurants, cafes and booths that sell trinkets, jewelry and souvenirs. Note: a nice walk (over one mile) would be from the May 15 Bridge to the Embaba Bridge. The Nile River has been Egypt’s lifeline since ancient times and a cruise on the river is an unmissable thing to do, especially if you go in a felucca - a traditional Egyptian wooden sailboat. Enjoy a relaxing break from sightseeing as you take in the stunning views of the Nile's banks and local life.

WHERE TO STAY

Cairo offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is the St Regis Cairo, located at 1189 Nile Corniche. In a grand building overlooking the Nile, this lavish hotel is a short Uber ride from Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum. Elegant rooms with marble bathrooms provide free WiFi, flat screen TVs, minibars and sofas. Upgraded quarters add river views and butler service. Amenities include 2 bars, a steakhouse, and Italian and Asian restaurants, plus indoor and outdoor pools. A poolside eatery offers local cuisine and shisha service along with views of the Nile. There's also an impressive spa that features a steam room and massage treatments.

A second option is the Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza, located at 1089 Corniche El Nil. Set in a high rise tower overlooking the Nile, this sophisticated hotel is a brief Uber ride from the Mosque Madrasa of Sultan Hassan and the Citadel. Refined rooms offer terraces, marble bathrooms and complimentary WiFi, as well as minibars and flat screen TVs. Upgrades add living rooms and Nile views. Other perks include a cafe and a shisha area, as well as 4 chic bars and 3 stylish restaurants. Additionally, there is a luxe spa with an indoor pool, a hammam, a sauna and a hot tub. There's also a rooftop garden with 3 outdoor pools and a poolside eatery.

Cairo is captivating with lots of amazing history, fascinating culture, wonderful art, incredible architecture, creative cuisine and marvelous museums. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.