Bogota

WHAT TO DO

Bogota (officially Bogota, Distrito Capital - abbreviated Bogota, DC) is the capital and largest city of Colombia. It is located on a high plateau known as the Bogota savanna, part of the Altiplano Cundiboyacense, situated in the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes Mountains. Its elevation is just under 9000 feet above sea level; there is no city in the world that is both higher and more populous than Bogota. The area of modern Bogota was first inhabited by groups of indigenous people who migrated south based on the relation with the other Chibcha languages. The society built by the Muisca, who settled in the valleys and fertile highlands of and surrounding the Altiplano Cundiboyacense plateau, was one of the great civilizations in the Americas. At the arrival of the Spanish conquistadores, the Muisca population was estimated to be half a million indigenous people on the Bogota savanna.

From 1533, a belief persisted that the Rio Grande de la Magdalena was the trail to the South Sea, to Peru and the mythical city of gold El Dorado. Such was the target of Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada, the Spanish conquistador who left Santa Marta in 1536, heading towards the interior of current Colombia. Jimenez de Quesada decided to establish a military encampment in the area, at the site today known as the Chorro de Quevedo square. The city was founded here with the name of Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza (Our Lady of Hope) in August of 1538. By way of a decree from the King of Spain Charles V, the name of the city was changed in 1540 to Santa Fe or Holy Faith. In 1819, General Simon Bolivar and his armies liberated the region - it was Bolivar who rebaptized the city with the name of Bogota, to honor the Muisca people and to emphasize the emancipation from Spain. Today, Bogota is Colombia's beating heart. It is an engaging, vibrant city surrounded by Andean peaks and steeped in sophisticated urban cool.

Begin your adventure in the Historic Center, La Candelaria. Bogota’s historic core can feel like a village out of the past with its narrow cobblestoned streets and colorful colonial architecture. Get an introduction to the city by taking a walking tour focusing on Colombia’s history or a graffiti tour that will show you the range of dynamic street art in the district. Many of the town's top attractions are located in and around La Candelaria. The usual place to start discovering Bogota is the giant Plaza de Bolivar, the heart of the original city. In the middle of the square is a bronze statue of Simon Bolivar, cast in 1846. This bustling plaza is surrounded by several important buildings - La Catedral Primada de Bogota (main church), Edificio Lievano (mayor's office) and Palacio de la Presidencia (presidential palace).

The neoclassical Catedral Primada stands on the site where the first Mass may have been celebrated after Bogota was founded in 1538 (some historians argue that it happened nearby at the Chorro de Quevedo square). Either way, it's Bogota's largest cathedral and the plaza's most dominating structure. The original simple thatched chapel was replaced by a more substantial building from 1556 to 1565 - this later collapsed due to poor foundations. In 1572 the third church went up, but the earthquake of 1785 reduced it to ruins. Only in 1807 was the massive building that stands today initiated and it was successfully completed by 1823. It was partly damaged during the Bogotazo riots in 1948. Unlike those of many Bogota churches, its spacious interior has relatively little ornamentation. Note: the tomb of Jimenez de Quesada, the founder of Bogota, is in the largest chapel off the right side aisle.

As noted earlier, no one agrees exactly where present day Bogota was founded - some say by the cathedral, others say here at the Chorro de Quevedo square. This tiny plaza is lined with cafes, a small white church and a number of bohemian street vendors. This spot is well worth a visit for the atmosphere. Explore the narrow alleys branching off the square and appreciate the local art scene. Graffiti in Bogota is a vibrant expression of art by local graffiti artists, showcasing their emotions and creativity on the city streets. The well crafted street art adds to the urban charm with this form of artistic expression. For a different kind of art (chocolate), head over to the close by Plaza de Mercado La Concordia. This totally awesome artisanal market is home to Latechoc, my favorite chocolate shop in town. Next is the majestic Teatro Colon. With its attractive Italian style facade, this grand performance hall has had various names since its birth in 1792; this latest version opened as Teatro Nacional in 1892 and was designed by Italian architect Pietro Cantini. Its lavish interiors reopened in 2014 after it underwent a six year makeover. The theater hosts concerts, opera, ballet and plays. Note: guided tours are available in English on Saturday at 12p and 3p.

From the theater, make your way to Museo Santa Clara. One of Bogota's most richly decorated churches, it is also one of its oldest. Deconsecrated in 1968, Santa Clara was acquired by the government and is now run as a museum, with paintings by some of Colombia's most revered baroque artists. Built between 1619 and 1647, the single nave construction features a barrel vault coated in golden floral motifs that looks down over walls entirely covered by 148 paintings and sculptures of saints. Note: the church was once part of an adjoining Franciscan convent that was demolished in the early 20th century. Built between 1557 and 1567, the Iglesia de San Francisco is Bogota's oldest surviving church. In the atmospherically dark interior, with its extravagant pews and steady trickle of praying pilgrims, you are immediately drawn to the ornate gilded 17th century altarpiece - the largest and most elaborate of its kind in the country.

Not far away are my 2 favorite museums in Bogota. Museo Botero, located in a colonial mansion in the heart of La Candelaria, is a must visit for art enthusiasts. The museum showcases an extensive collection of works by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, known for his larger than life art. Also on display are pieces by other artists (Picasso, Monet, Matisse and Klimt), from Botero's personal collection. Donated to the state by the artist himself, the museum maintains Botero's original arrangement from its inauguration in 2000. Note: Botero paintings to look out for include a parody of Di Vinci’s Mona Lisa (1978), the wonderfully intimate Pareja Bailando (1987) and the haunting studies of Colombia’s drug cartel violence in the 1980s and 1990s.

Nearby is Bogota's most famous museum and one of the most fascinating in South America - the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) contains more than 55000 pieces of gold and other materials from all of Colombia's major pre Hispanic cultures. The collection is laid out in logical, thematic rooms over three floors, and descriptions are in Spanish and English. Second floor exhibits break down findings by region, with descriptions of how pieces were used. The third floor 'Offering' room exhibits explain how gold was used in ceremonies and rituals. Some of the displayed tunjos (gold offerings, usually figurines depicting various aspects of social life) were thrown into the Laguna de Guatavita lake; the most famous one, found near the town of Pasca in 1969, is the miniature gold raft called the Balsa Muisca. Note: the museum gets very busy on Sunday, when entry is free. It is closed on Monday.

Next, head to Casa Museo Quinta de Bolivar. This historic home museum is set in a garden at the foot of the Cerro de Monserrate. The mansion was built in 1800 and gifted to Simon Bolivar in 1820 in gratitude for his liberating services - he spent 423 days here over nine years. The house contains original furniture and period pieces, including Bolivar's sword. Just up the road and hill is Monserrate, a mountain located in the middle of town. The most visited attraction in Bogota, it is a popular destination for both pilgrims and tourists. At over 10000 feet above sea level, it offers stunning panoramic views of the capital city. The mountain is home to the Sanctuary of Monserrate and features expansive gardens perfect for leisurely strolls. Note: take the funicular to the top of the mountain and be sure to purchase front of the line tickets to avoid long wait times.

Housed in the expansive, Greek cross shaped building called El Panoptico (designed as a prison by English architect Thomas Reed in 1874), the Museo Nacional explores Colombia's past via archeology, history, ethnology and art. It houses over 20000 artifacts dating from the 16th century to modern times. The museum offers a comprehensive insight into the diverse ethnic and cultural influences that have shaped the country's history. Note: the museum is currently undergoing a major modernization and some of the galleries are closed. From the museum, stop by the well known Mercado Paloquemao. This bustling local farmer's market features an indoor hall where you can find a wide variety of fresh produce, including tropical fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and beautiful flowers. The market offers an abundance of Colombian specialties such as the lulo (citrusy fruit), granadilla (sweet passion fruit) and guanabana (soursop fruit). Visitors can also indulge in local delicacies like tamales made from corn flour and stuffed with chicken, pork, rice and eggs.

Conclude your tour of Bogota by visiting a few of its other unique districts. Zona Rosa, also known as Zona T, is a lively and trendy pedestrianized zone. During the day, it's a fashionable shopping district with high end stores and eclectic boutiques. At night, it transforms into an energetic hub for entertainment and nightlife - the area boasts numerous restaurants and bars that cater to different tastes. Chapinero is a vibrant district, known for its mix of affluent residential areas and commercial zones. The neighborhood offers a variety of excellent dining options, from upscale areas like Parque de la 93 and Zona G (the G stands for gourmet). La Macarena is an artsy neighborhood, with cultural draws ranging from edgy galleries to major venues like the landmark Santamaria Bullring. The quaint neighborhood of Usaquen is buzzing with activity on weekends as dozens of artisans set up small stalls on its narrow streets and sell all manner of goods. At its lovely crafts market, you can get gold plated earrings in the shape of toucans, colorful wood carvings of Colombian hummingbirds and skin care products made from Amazonian fruits.

WHERE TO EAT

Bogota has several great places to eat and enjoy a drink or two. Start your day at Libertario Coffee Roasters, located on Calle 70a in Zona G of Chapinero. This specialty shop offers a selection of high quality coffees sourced from local farmers in Colombia. The cafe prides itself on its commitment to sustainability and aims to provide the best coffee while preserving the planet for future generations. Visitors can enjoy a variety of coffee options from the city's surrounding areas - they also do darn good pastries. If you want to truly immerse yourself in Bogota's vibrant cafe culture, a visit to Azahar Coffee Parque 93 is a must. Nestled near the park on Calle 93b, this lively spot attracts digital nomads tapping away on their laptops while enjoying a solid cup of joe.

Les Amis Pastry Shop is a charming little coffee shop located on Carrera 16. It stands out for its vintage ambiance, attentive service and quiet spaces where you can enjoy homemade pastries and lattes. Found on Calle 66 in Chapinero, Arbol del Pan is a charming bakery that has quickly become a beloved brunch destination. The moment you step inside, the intoxicating aroma of freshly baked bread and pastries envelops you, making it hard to resist indulging in their offerings. With an inviting atmosphere designed by architect Olga Visbal in 2013, this cozy spot features a stunning skylit atrium where patrons can enjoy artisanal delights while soaking up the vibrant neighborhood vibe.

For lunch, head to the superb Prudencia on Carrera 2 in La Candelaria. This beloved restaurant in the Historic Center is the creation of owners Mario Rosero and Meghan Flanigan. It exudes love and dedication in every aspect, from its architecture blending local bamboo with recycled materials to its freshly baked wood oven bread and homemade spice blends. The sunlit dining room, once a colonial style home, has a rustic ambiance. They offer a seven course set menu that changes monthly. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday and Tuesday. La Puerta Falsa, a two hundred year old establishment located near Plaza de Bolivar on Calle 11, is a much loved destination for locals and visitors alike. This cozy cafe has been frequented by well known figures such as writers, actors and ex presidents. The menu features traditional home cooked meals including Ajiaco Santafereno (a soup made with chicken, potatoes and herbs) and Chocolate Completo (the wondrous combination of hot chocolate, cheese and buttered bread).

Restaurante Salvo Patria, found in Chapinero on Carrera 4, offers an authentic dining experience. The chefs, Juan Manuel Ortiz and Alejandro Gutierrez, previously worked with Virgilio Martinez at Central in Lima. They have brought their concept of fresh and diverse cuisine to this neighborhood hot spot. The restaurant serves an ever changing menu based on sustainable ingredients from producers with whom the owners maintain close relationships. Tasty dishes include cured sea bass and smoked trout, and there are vegan items such as roasted mushrooms with macadamia sauce. Note: reservations are required. Just down the road is Mini Mal. This charming space with a relaxed atmosphere puts a creative spin on traditional dishes. One of its standout offerings is the Deep in the Jungle, which showcases Colombia's farm to table movement by featuring a signature dish paired with crunchy lemon seasoned ants and tucupi, a paste made by an Indigenous community supported by the restaurant. Founded by Antonuela Ariza and Eduardo Martinez, Mini Mal aims to reconnect diners with Colombia's rich biodiversity through ancestral culinary techniques and practices. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday.

For dinner, make your way to Mesa Franca on Calle 61 in Chapinero. This easygoing eatery with a terrace and a trendy vibe presents innovative cuisine and cocktails. Chef Ivan Cadena combines bistro cooking with local produce to create award winning dishes. Plates designed for sharing include pork belly with a tamarind jus and corn empanadas with potato sofrito, sweet chili and pork filling. The restaurant's mixologist, Tom Hydzik, crafts experimental cocktails to complement the food. The drinks list's forte is cocktails that incorporate local ingredients - try the refreshing Paranormal, made with gin infused with sour guava, herbs and soda. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday. Ukiyo on Carrera 9a offers an exceptional dining experience with its Japanese Colombian fusion cuisine, using locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant's simple yet elegant interior reflects its dedication to serving beautifully presented dishes made with the freshest ingredients. Food enthusiasts can indulge in pacific crab dumplings, pork ramen and Andean duck breast marinated in orange and spices with blackberry sauce, creamy cauliflower and roasted baby carrots. Note: the restaurant is closed on Sunday.

Another outstanding spot is DonDoh, found next to Parque de la 93 on Calle 93a. Inspired by traditional Japanese izakayas and robatayakis, this stylish place creates a unique experience focused on robata style grilling. The robata is a Japanese grill with over two thousand years of history. This technique, known as 'robatayaki,' involves cooking ingredients on skewers over open flames. I enjoyed both the robata skirt steak with yuzu butter and black salt, and the robata shrimp with lemongrass and ginger. Note: DonDoh also has an impressive bar where mixologists blend flavors with smoking techniques, elevating each cocktail to a masterpiece. For a truly unforgettable experience, head to Andres Carne de Res on Calle 3 in the town of Chia - seven miles north of Bogota. This legendary steakhouse is known for offering a unique Colombian experience. It is famous for its stellar empanadas and all night, alcohol fueled benders that create a fiesta atmosphere. With a humongous menu featuring succulent steaks, arepas and ceviche, diners can enjoy hearty Colombian cuisine. Note: the restaurant is almost always open and Latin America’s 50 Best list describes it as 'Alice in Wonderland meets Moulin Rouge.'

An additional place for solid steaks without the spectacle is Harry Sasson, located on Carrera 9 in Chapinero. Colombia’s most famous chef brings Latin American, Japanese and European flavors together at his eponymous flagship establishment, a regular feature on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Floor to ceiling windows in this historic mock Tudor townhouse give additional space to the airy salon that also houses an open kitchen. Indulge in Colombian starters such as freshly baked pan de yuca before moving onto shrimp tail from the Japanese grill or a succulent filet mignon with grilled avocados. There’s a separate menu section for the revered heart of palm and the wine list is the very definition of extensive. Note: reservations are necessary.

My most memorable dining experience in Bogota was at Humo Negro on Carrera 5 in Chapinero. After years working as head chef at the renowned El Chato, Jaime Torregrosa opened this tremendous project, which translates to 'black smoke.' The restaurant, currently ranked in Latin America’s 50 Best list, offers a unique interpretation of a Japanese izakaya with a fusion of Latin American, Nordic and Japanese flavors. With a focus on sustainable Colombian products, chef sources ingredients such as the pirarucu (a fish from the Amazon river) from responsible suppliers, helping protect the Amazon and supporting local fishing communities. I strongly encourage going with the omakase tasting menu - it includes signature dishes such as ostras a la parrilla (Colombian grilled oysters), the pirarucu belly with camu camu fruit, mellowed rice and roasted coconut ice cream with cocoa nibs and quinoa. Everything has the option to be paired with original cocktails like the Jicama Mule made with gin, homemade ginger beer and jicama (a starchy root vegetable). Note: reservations are a must.

The top 2 restaurants in Bogota (in my opinion) are Leo and El Chato. Located on Calle 65 in Chapinero, Leo is a leading dining destination in the country. Take a tour into the heart of the Amazon rainforest, up Andean highlands, through deserts and along the Pacific coastline to the Caribbean, all without leaving the comfort of one of the city’s most stylish restaurants. Chef Leonor Espinosa celebrates the unique diversity of the country and crafts her captivating ‘Ciclo Biome’ seasonal tasting menu around little known ingredients such as the mojojoy worm, jumbalin and borojo (tropical fruits). Espinosa was crowned Latin America’s Best Female Chef in 2017 and Leo broke onto The World’s 50 Best list in 2019. Note: the restaurant has an excellent upstairs bar which I will discuss shortly.

Just a few steps away on Calle 65 is the superb El Chato. Seasonal, unusual and forgotten Colombian ingredients make the cut at this hip venue - currently ranked 3 on Latin America’s 50 Best and 25 on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list. The two story space is intimate and bustling, with a moodily lit dining room on the ground floor and an open kitchen, spice library and chef’s table up top. Chef Alvaro Clavijo, who has returned to his homeland after stints in some of the best kitchens in Europe and North America, takes classic local dishes and throws in twists: think chicken hearts, young potatoes, egg yolk and sorrel or a mushroom tartare. For dessert, kindly ask the team to bring you the off menu avocado souffle. Note: reservations are essential.

End your evening in Bogota with a drink or two. La Sala de Laura (Laura's Room) can be found above the acclaimed restaurant Leo on Calle 65 in Chapinero. The daughter of Leo’s Leonor Espinosa is the eponymous Laura, previously sommelier at the restaurant. For La Sala, she has spearheaded a project to create a range of distilled spirits entitled Territorio, all inspired by Colombia’s ecosystems. These are used in deceptively simple cocktails such as the No 5 Territorio, featuring a manzanilla cordial, cape gooseberry and an ale foam. Classic twists are available too, such as the Negroni de La Sala de Laura with a Territorio distillate, sweet vermouth, Campari and cocoa husk. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday.

Located on Calle 79b is the cozy Bar Enano. Given that it’s named 'Dwarf Bar,' you might rightly assume that there isn’t much room at this joint, tucked away at the back of the restaurant El Bandido. Enano’s size isn’t the most noteworthy thing about it, with the cocktails easily outshining everything else. Classics like the Martinez and Corpse Reviver No 2 rub shoulders on the menu with creative signature cocktails. Perhaps the most striking of the drinks on offer is the Penicillin, served in a vintage looking syringe presented on a medical tray. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday. Finish up at Jardin Tragos y Pasteles (Garden Drinks and Cakes) on Calle 67. A greenery lined narrow courtyard leads the way to this lovely refuge from the worries of the world. With an atmosphere that feels more relaxed cafe than bar, a large indoor outdoor garden patio sets a soothing tone for craft cocktails, delicious desserts and good conversation. Note: the bar is closed on Monday.

WHERE TO STAY

Bogota offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is the Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina, located on Carrera 7. This luxe Spanish Colonial style property is in the center of Zona G in Chapinero. Refined rooms feature custom furniture, free WiFi, flat screen TVs and minibars, plus living areas and marble bathrooms. Upgraded quarters add courtyard views and fireplaces. A stylish restaurant with a bar serves Spanish tapas. There’s also a spa with a steam room and massages.

A second option is the JW Marriott, located nearby on Calle 73. This upscale hotel in a contemporary building is also situated in the middle of the gourmet district of Chapinero. Featuring soundproof windows, the relaxed rooms have complimentary WiFi and flat screen TVs, plus kitchenettes, safes and minibars. Upgrades add living rooms and offer access to a lounge that has drinks and snacks on the house. Other perks include a steakhouse, a sushi bar and a pizzeria. Additional amenities include an indoor pool, a hot tub and a business center. There’s also a spa with a steam room and massages.

Bogota is a vibrant city with dynamic culture, incredible history, outstanding museums, marvelous architecture and world class cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.