Lima

WHAT TO DO

Lima is the capital and largest city of Peru. It is located in the valleys of the Chillon, Rimac and Lurin Rivers, in the desert zone of the central coastal part of the country, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. According to early Spanish articles, the Lima area was once called Itchyma - after its original inhabitants. However, even before the Inca occupation of the area in the 15th century, a famous oracle in the Rimac Valley had come to be known by visitors as Limaq, which means 'talker' in the indigenous language Quechua. Modern scholars speculate that the word Lima originated as the Spanish pronunciation of the native name Limaq. Although the history of the city began with its Spanish foundation in 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, the territory was occupied by pre Inca settlements, which were grouped under the Lordship of Ichma. During the time of the Incas, the valley of Lima was highly populated and organized into an Inca province, or huamani (wamani), called Pachacamac. After the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire, the city prospered as the center of an extensive trade network with the Americas, Europe and East Asia.

Freedom from Spain arrived when a combined expedition of Argentine and Chilean independence fighters led by General Jose de San Martin landed in Lima in 1820, but did not attack the city. Fearing a popular uprising, the Spanish viceroy invited San Martin to enter the city - signing a Declaration of Independence at his request. Proclaimed the independence of Peru in 1821 by General San Martin, Lima became the capital of the new Republic of Peru. Today, Lima has a dynamic cultural scene and its Historic Center was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988. It has the privilege of being the only capital in South America with immediate access to the sea. In addition, it has a number of delightful districts such as Miraflores, Barranco and San Isidro. The city is known as the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas - mixing Spanish, Andean and Asian culinary traditions. Lima is a dazzling destination with its historic architecture, fantastic museums and world class cuisine.

Begin your journey in the heart of the Historic Center (Centro) at Plaza Mayor, also known as Plaza de Armas. This grand square was not only the hub of the 16th century settlement established by Francisco Pizarro, it was a center of the Spaniards’ continent wide empire. The plaza holds great significance as the birthplace of Lima and played a pivotal role in Peru's history, being the site where Jose de San Martin proclaimed independence for the country. Though not one original building remains, in the middle of the square is an impressive bronze fountain erected in 1650. Surrounding the plaza are several significant public buildings: to the east is the Palacio Arzobispal, built in 1924 in a colonial style and boasting some of the most exquisite Moorish style balconies in the city. To the northeast is the block long Palacio de Gobierno. This grandiose baroque style building from 1937 serves as the residence of Peru’s president.

The most magnificent structure on the plaza is Lima Cathedral, also known as the Basilica Cathedral of Lima. It is located on the plot of land that Pizarro designated for the city’s first church in 1535. Though it retains a baroque facade, the building has been built and rebuilt numerous times: in 1551, in 1622 and after the earthquakes of 1687 and 1746. A craze for all things neoclassical in the late 18th century left much of the interior (and the interiors of many Lima churches) stripped of its elaborate baroque decor. Even so, there is plenty to see. The various chapels along the nave display more than a dozen altars carved in every imaginable style and the ornate wood choir, produced by Pedro de Noguera in the early 17th century, is a masterpiece of rococo sculpture. Next to the cathedral’s main door is the mosaic covered chapel with the remains of Pizarro. The authenticity of the remains came into question in 1977, after workers cleaning out a crypt discovered several bodies and a sealed lead box containing a skull that bore the inscription, 'Here is the head of the gentleman Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro, who found and conquered the kingdom of Peru.'

Nearby is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. One of Lima’s most historic religious sites, the church and its expansive convent are built on land granted to the Dominican friar Vicente de Valverde, who accompanied Pizarro throughout the conquest and was instrumental in persuading him to execute the captured Inca Atahualpa. Originally completed in the 16th century, this delightful pink church has been rebuilt and remodeled at various points since. It is most renowned as the final resting place for three important Peruvian saints: San Juan Macias, Santa Rosa de Lima and San Martin de Porres. The convent - a sprawling courtyard studded complex lined with baroque paintings and clad in vintage Spanish tiles - contains the saints’ tombs. The church, however, has the most interesting relics: the skulls of San Martin and Santa Rosa, encased in glass, in a shrine to the right of the main altar.

Not far away is the Monasterio de San Francisco. This bright yellow Franciscan monastery and church is most famous for its bone lined catacombs (containing an estimated 70000 remains) and its remarkable library housing 25000 antique texts, some of which pre date the conquest. This baroque structure has many other treasures: the most spectacular is a geometric Moorish style cupola over the main staircase, which was carved in 1625 out of Nicaraguan cedar and restored in 1969. In addition, the refectory contains 13 paintings of the biblical patriarch Jacob and his 12 sons, attributed to the studio of Spanish master Francisco de Zurbaran. Note: admission includes a 30 minute guided tour in English or Spanish. Close by is Casa de Aliaga, a historic mansion dating back to 1535 and considered the oldest dwelling in the Americas. It has been continuously inhabited by the same noble family since its founding, showcasing a mix of architectural styles from the 16th to the 19th century. The house reflects the maximalist sensibilities of Peruvian aristocracy and features Baroque, Moorish revival, Art Nouveau and Beaux Arts elements.

A short drive away is Plaza San Martin. Built in the early 20th century, this square has come to life in recent years as the city has set about restoring its park and giving the surrounding beaux arts architecture a much needed scrubbing. It is especially lovely in the evenings, when it is illuminated. The plaza is named for the liberator of Peru, Jose de San Martin, who sits astride a horse at the center of the plaza. At the base of the statue, don’t miss the bronze rendering of Madre Patria, the symbolic mother of Peru. Commissioned in Spain with the instruction to give the good lady a crown of flames, nobody thought to iron out the double meaning of the word flame in Spanish (llama), so the hapless artisans duly placed a delightful little llama on her head. Note: the once stately Gran Hotel Bolivar, built in the 1920s, presides over the square from the northwest. The Museo de Arte de Lima can be found at Paseo Colon 125. Known locally as MALI, Lima’s principal fine art museum is housed in a striking beaux arts building that was renovated in 2015. Subjects range from pre Columbian to Peruvian contemporary art. Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

My favorite museum in town is the Museo Larco. Set in an 18th century viceroy’s mansion, this museum offers one of the largest, best presented displays of ceramics in Lima. Founded by pre Columbian collector Rafael Larco Hoyle in 1926, the collection includes more than 50000 pots, with ceramic works from the Cupisnique, Chimu, Chancay, Nazca and Inca cultures. Highlights include the sublime Moche portrait vessels, presented in simple, dramatically lit cases and a Wari weaving in one of the rear galleries that contains 398 threads to the linear inch. There’s also gold and jewels. Many visitors are lured here by a separately housed collection of pre Columbian erotica illustrating all manner of sexual activity with comical explicitness. Note: the highly recommended on site Cafe del Museo faces a private garden draped in bougainvillea and is a perfect spot for lunch. Nearby is the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, Arqueologia e Historia del Peru. Trace the history of Peru from the pre ceramic period to the early republic. Displays include the famous Raimondi Stela, a large Chavin rock carving from one of the first Andean cultures to have a widespread, recognizable artistic style. Late colonial and early republic paintings include an 18th century Last Supper in which Christ and his disciples feast on cuy (guinea pig). Note: the building was home to revolutionary heroes Jose de San Martin and Simon Bolivar.

Next, make your way to the Museo Amano at Retiro 160 in the Miraflores district. This well designed gallery features a fine private collection of ceramics, with a strong representation of wares from the Chimu and Nazca cultures. It also has a remarkable assortment of lace and other textiles produced by the pre Columbian coastal Chancay culture. Note: the museum is closed on Monday. From there, head to the monumental Huaca Pucllana. This huaca (in the Quechuan languages of South America - an object that represents something revered, typically a monument of some kind) is a restored adobe ceremonial center from the ancient pre Inca culture that dates back to AD 400. In 2010 an important discovery of four Wari mummies, untouched by looting, was made. Though vigorous excavations continue in and around the former pyramid, the site is accessible by guided tours in English or Spanish. Note: in addition to a tiny on site museum, there is a celebrated restaurant that offers incredible views of the illuminated ruins at night.

After exploring the archaeological site, walk west down Av Arequipa towards Parque Kennedy - stopping in for a look see at the Inka Market along the way. This vibrant and bustling market offers an array of Peruvian handicrafts, textiles, ceramics, alpaca clothing and iconic Andean hats known as chullos. Just down the street is Parque Kennedy, a lovely city park honoring US President John F Kennedy. It is renowned as one of the best parks in Lima and has pleasant green spaces with leafy trees for visitors to enjoy while strolling through its winding paths. The park is also home to over 100 stray cats protected by the municipality of Miraflores and has its own organization dedicated to their well being. From the park, continue walking west towards the ocean until you reach Parque del Amor (Love Park). This popular destination provides stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. It features a large kissing sculpture called 'The Kiss' by Victor Delfin and mosaic walls adorned with colorful benches inscribed with love themed phrases by Peruvian authors. Finish up in the Miraflores district with a leisurely stroll along the Malecon coastal walkway. Start at Love Park and head south until you reach Larcomar, a modern outdoor shopping center with various stores and Pacific views.

Another splendid district to check out is San Isidro, the upscale neighborhood that is home to the Bosque El Olivar. This tranquil park consists of the remnants of an old olive grove, part of which was planted by the venerated San Martin de Porres in the 17th century. Conclude your tour of Lima in the charming district of Barranco which is celebrated as the city's most artistic enclave. Established in 1874, this vibrant neighborhood boasts colorful houses adorned with striking street art and a lively cultural scene that attracts artists, musicians and photographers alike. The iconic wooden Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) serves as a picturesque spot for visitors to enjoy breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean while basking in the nostalgic ambiance during sunset. Note: for heavenly chocolate in Barranco, do visit El Cacaotal at Jr Colina 111. This boutique shop and tasting room has the best Peruvian cacao.

WHERE TO EAT

Lima has several great places to eat and enjoy a drink or two. Start your day at La Panetteria, located at Av Almte Miguel Grau 369 in Barranco. This quiet and cozy spot does yummy chocolate filled croissants, avocado dishes and superb coffee options. Another spot for darn good coffee is The Coffee Road at Av Guillermo Prescott 365 in San Isidro. Founded by Alejandro Chu in 2014, this spacious and artsy cafe boasts a design reminiscent of a tinkerer's workshop, adorned with relics of old coffee machines. For excellent eggs, try La Postreria Cafe at Ca Enrique Palacios 1008 in Miraflores. This charming place, away from the hustle and bustle also offers a variety of delicious fruit juices. If you fancy churros, a visit to Manolo is a must. Found at Av Jose Larco 608 in Miraflores, this beloved establishment has garnered attention for its delectable fried dough, which comes in a variety of flavors including chocolate, vanilla and the irresistible dulce de leche.

Lima is a melting pot of ingredients indigenous to the coast, jungle and highlands of Peru. Feast your eyes on a rainbow of produce at the Mercado de Surquillo in Miraflores. This lively market is mostly frequented by locals and has an enormous selection of native fruits, vegetables, herbs, meat and fish. The vendors are happy to explain (in Spanish) where fruits like chirimoya (custard apple) and granadilla (similar to passion fruit) derive and to discuss the nutritional value of seeds like sacha inchi that have been consumed since the time of the Incas. Note: the best time to visit the market is early in the day. The city has some tremendous street food - in the mornings, street corners host carts selling quinoa, a warm drink made with the nutritious pseudo grain, apples and spices like cinnamon and clove. By late afternoon, carts in Parque Kennedy are stocked with the fixings to put together a pan con chicharron (fried pork sandwich) and picarones (fried squash doughnuts drizzled in chancaca syrup). Another tasty treat is choclo con queso y huacatay (corn on the cob with cheese, seasoned with a black mint sauce).

For lunch, head to La Lucha Sangucheria Criolla at Av Jose Larco 999 in Miraflores. This popular place is known for its delicious sandwiches. Despite long lines, the wait is worth it for the lomo lucha (meat with cheese and caramelized onions). An additional legendary sandwich spot is El Chinito, located at C Grimaldo del Solar 113 in Miraflores. The top draw on the menu is the chicharron sandwich, featuring juicy and tender pork with a delicious onion salad. The Peking chicken sandwich stands out with its unique Peruvian flavors, complemented by sweet daikon spread and leche de tigre (a marinade made from fish trimmings, citrus juices and other ingredients) soaked onions. Alongside these flavorful sandwiches, the restaurant also serves excellent fried rice and soothing strawberry juice. La Picanteria can be found at Sta Rosa 388 in the Surquillo district. This renowned establishment offers cuisine from Arequipa, Peru's charming third city located in the southern Andean foothills. In Arequipa, picanterias are a way of life and typically open only for lunch, serving a variety of dishes including seafood and meaty options like chicharron (fried pork belly).

When I think of Peruvian food, the most iconic dish will always be ceviche - raw seafood marinated with lime and spices. To me, the magic comes from seasoning with a chili from the north called aji mochero. There are a number of fantastic places to enjoy this delicious dish and I would like to share some of my favorites. La Mar Cevicheria Peruana is at Av Mariscal La Mar 770 in Miraflores. This seafood temple founded by Gaston Acurio is a must visit to savor the country's national dish. The restaurant boasts a stylish design and attracts trendy locals and tourists alike. Note: it is best to visit during lunchtime as it follows the Peruvian tradition of not serving ceviche at night. Nearby at Av Hipolito Unanue 203 is the excellent El Mercado. This hot spot draws an attractive crowd with its stellar ceviche, creative dishes, and an indoor outdoor setting with lots of greenery. I enjoyed the super fresh scallop and octopus ceviche along with a passion fruit pisco sour to drink, it was delightful.

Also in Miraflores at Av La Paz 1640 is El Pez Amigo. Several variations of ceviche are offered here at the 'friendly fish' in addition to other delicacies from the Peruvian ocean currents. Nestled in the district of Jesus Maria at General Garzon 1788, Don Fernando Restaurante is a culinary gem that celebrates the unique flavors of Peru's northern region. This eatery specializes in traditional dishes that reflect a rich tapestry of pre Columbian cooking techniques and local ingredients, drawing inspiration from the Moche culture. Diners are treated to an array of fresh seafood options, including exquisite ceviches.

For dinner, make your way to Rafael at Ca San Martin 300 in Miraflores. This highly acclaimed restaurant is celebrated for its modern Peruvian cuisine with Italian flavors. Chef Rafael Osterling has skillfully combined diverse culinary influences to create a menu featuring delectable dishes such as Galician roasted octopus, roasted corn ravioli and grilled confit lobster. Another muy fantastico destination is Mayta, found at Av Mariscal La Mar 1285. This contemporary spot has gained recognition for its innovative approach to traditional Peruvian cuisine, earning a place on Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef Jaime Pesaque's transition from casual dining to fine dining has elevated dishes like ceviche, with the renowned cebiche amazonico showcasing unique flavors such as Amazonian ginger and charapita chile. Astrid y Gaston is located at Av Paz Soldan 290 in San Isidro. This refined restaurant has become a classic in Lima's culinary scene. Founded by chef Gaston Acurio and pastry chef Astrid Gutsche, it opened its doors in 1994 and played a significant role in the revival of Peruvian gastronomy. Housed in a spacious 17th century palace with modern minimalist decor, it offers regional seafood and meat dishes along with an extensive selection of cocktails and wines.

For hundreds of years, Peru has enjoyed a mixture of Spanish and Indigenous dishes that locals call comida criolla (creole food). My favorite place to eat this cuisine is Isolina, found at Av San Martin 101 in Barranco. This rustic eatery pays homage to hardworking Peruvian women, particularly the owner's mother, Isolina Vargas. It serves traditional homemade dishes that were once closely guarded secrets of Lima's mothers. I enjoyed the papa rellena (a deep fried potato stuffed with a meat stew) and the lomo saltado (beef stir fry with french fries, onions and tomatoes). Also in Barranco at Jr 28 De Julio 206, Merito stands out as one of the best restaurants in the Peruvian capital. The chef, Juan Luis Martinez, skillfully blends his Venezuelan roots with Peruvian culinary traditions and other Latin American influences. The menu reflects a diverse exploration of flavors using local ingredients and a strong aesthetic sense. Note: reservations are essential.

The world renowned restaurant Central is at Av Pedro de Osma 301 in Barranco. Owned by chef Virgilio Martinez, it stands out for its unique approach to haute cuisine, focusing on Peruvian biodiversity and using ingredients from different altitudes and regions of the country. The restaurant has been consistently ranked among the top 50 restaurants globally and was awarded first place in 2023 for its innovative culinary concepts. Central also prioritizes sustainability and conscious use of natural resources. Note: reservations are vital. Kjolle is a recent addition to Lima's fine dining scene, created by Pia Leon, the wife and business partner of Virgilio Martinez. Situated in the same space as Central, Kjolle offers a more relaxed atmosphere on its sunny terrace. It serves exquisite dishes that blend ingredients and flavors from across Peru, available a la carte or as an 8 course tasting menu with South American wine pairings. Note: be sure to book well in advance.

One country that's had an enormous influence on Peruvian food is Japan. Ever since Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru over 100 years ago, they have created a unique kind of fusion called Nikkei. Shizen can be found at Av Los Conquistadores 999 in San Isidro. An essential stop for classic Nikkei cuisine, Shizen's highlights include expertly prepared ceviches, udon noodle dishes made using Peruvian spices and creative maki rolls, such as house invented maki acevichado, which incorporates leche de tigre marinated raw fish into a classic sushi roll. One more dish that stands out is the Peruvian silverside fish with sea urchin. Note: the drinks are also outstanding - do try the matcha colada. My most memorable dining experience in Lima was at Maido, located at Ca San Martin 399 in Miraflores. Currently ranked as Latin America’s Best for three consecutive years and number 5 on The World’s 50 Best list - Maido is where the Peruvian and Japanese cultural heritages of Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura collide on the plate. Entering the upstairs dining room, with ropes artfully hung from the ceiling, the assault on the senses begins immediately as the waiting team shout ‘maido’ (‘welcome’ in Japanese) in unison at each newly arrived guest. Order from the sushi bar, pick and mix from the a la carte or splurge on the ‘Nikkei Experience’ tasting menu. Seafood plays a leading role, with Peru’s national dish of ceviche not to be missed. Other highlights include the beef short rib that is cooked for 50 hours and so tender only a spoon is needed to carve it at the table. Note: reservations are crucial.

End your evening in Lima with a drink or two. When in town, one must not miss the opportunity to enjoy the national drink of Peru - the Pisco Sour. Invented by American ex pat Victor Morris in the early 1920s, it consists of Peruvian pisco (brandy) and adds freshly squeezed lime juice, simple syrup, ice, egg white and Angostura bitters. A fine place for pisco is Bar Museo Del Pisco, located at Jr Junin 203 in the Historic Center. Nestled just a stone's throw from the iconic Plaza de Armas, it is a must visit for anyone looking to dive into Peru's rich cultural heritage. This vibrant lounge offers an impressive selection of around 100 types of pisco, alongside the classic sour. From there, head back to Barranco and hit Ayahuasca at Av San Martin 130. Housed in a magnificent mansion, this psychedelic joint serves classic pisco sours with a twist, such as using passion fruit or Andean fruits like aguaymanto and tumbo. The establishment also serves refreshing Chilcano cocktails (pisco, ginger ale and lime juice) and their famous Tunche made with pisco, strawberries and passion fruit pulp. Note: the bar is open daily until 3a.

Carnaval can be found at Av Pardo y Aliaga 662 in San Isidro. This unique enterprise was co founded by Aaron Diaz and his partners Juan Jose Benitez and Raul Arcayo. It has an extensive list of 70 cocktails, including 18 classics with added twists and five pisco based creations. The 'Gran Carnaval' tasting menu features seven carefully selected cocktails, such as the house's pisco punch made with quebranta grapes, lillet, pineapple, elderflower and spices. Note: the bar is open from 5p and is closed on Sunday. Nearby at Av Camino Real 101 is Limaq Bar. This stylish spot provides an exquisite fusion of flavors and a picturesque setting that captivates both locals and tourists alike. Me gusto the Sapo Huasca cocktail - Hendrick's gin with a limoncello of Amazonian citrons. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday.

Wrap up the night in Miraflores at my 2 favorite watering holes in Lima. Sastreria Martinez is at Av Mariscal La Mar 1263. Opened in 2022, this speakeasy takes inspiration from America's Prohibition era - to get in you must enter through the Martinez tailor shop. Once inside, the clever design scheme unfolds in beautiful details like moody recessed golden lighting, vintage leather couches and hefty velvet armchairs. Diego Macedo brings twenty years of experience bartending around the world to the drinks list, serving up classic cocktails with precision in addition to signature creations that are made with regional liqueurs and distillates like Andean agave, pistachio cream liqueur and Matacuy (cane distillate infused with herbs). Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday, and reservations are recommended. Lady Bee is located at Av Ernesto Diez Canseco 329. Two classic cocktails, the White Lady and Bee's Knees, were the original inspiration for the name of this rad space, where a honeybee motif also threads throughout the decor and drinks (including the glassware and garnishes). Revel in the chic ambience at the bar, where drinks are executed with precision, but also know that Gabriela Leon and Alonso Palomino opened the place with sustainability in mind - the bar staff also participates in reforestation efforts in the community and sell goods made by local artists in the shop. Note: the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday.

WHERE TO STAY

Lima offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Belmond Miraflores Park, located at Av Malecon de la Reserva 1035. This modern luxury hotel sits on the cliffs of Miraflores and provides spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. The elegant suites feature free WiFi, flat screen TVs and minibars, plus living areas and marble bathrooms. Upgraded quarters add saunas, terraces and panoramic city or ocean views. There are 2 restaurants, including an upscale 11th floor eatery offering commanding views, as well as a tea lounge and an intimate bar. There's also an outdoor pool along with a spa and a turtle pond.

A second option is the JW Marriott, located nearby at Av Malecon de la Reserva 615. Just across the street from the Larcomar outdoor shopping center, this contemporary luxury hotel is a short stroll from Parque Playa Redondo along the Pacific Ocean. The polished rooms feature water views, complimentary WiFi, iPod docks and flat screen TVs, plus tea and coffeemaking facilities. Upgrades add whirlpool tubs and separate living rooms with sofas. Other perks include 2 restaurants, including a sushi bar along with a business center, a spa and an outdoor pool.

Lima is loaded with wonderful culture, fascinating history, amazing architecture, marvelous museums and outstanding cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.