Bari

WHAT TO DO

Bari is a port city on the Adriatic Sea and the vibrant capital of southern Italy’s Puglia region - the heel of the boot. Bari itself known in antiquity as Barium, was a harbor of the Iapygian Peuceti tribe. The authors of the Etymologicum Magnum have preserved an etymology by authors of antiquity about Barium, which they explain as the word 'house' in the extinct Messapic language. The city had strong Greek influences before the Roman era. In the 3rd century BC, it became part of the Roman Republic. With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476, Bari was invaded by Barbarians and occupied by the Ostrogoths. It was taken from them by the Byzantine Empire during the Gothic wars and disputed for the following two centuries with the Lombards of the Duchy of Benevento, who made it a steward.

In 1071, Bari was captured by Robert Guiscard, following a three year siege, ending what remained of the Byzantine power in the region. Following this, Bari's physical and political landscapes were changed: the praetorium which had functioned as a political center was converted into the Basilica of Saint Nicholas. Relics of Saint Nicholas were brought to Bari in 1087 and installed in the basilica. In 1813, Joachim Murat, King of Naples in the Napoleonic era, began a new urbanization, changing the face of the city and setting a new 'chessboard' growth model, which continued for many years to come. In 1943, during the Second World War and in connection with the Armistice of Cassibile, Bari was taken without resistance by the British 1st Airborne Division.

Today, a growing number of travelers to Puglia are being drawn in by its lush landscapes, ancient architecture, warm Mediterranean climate and intense flavors. Bari's cuisine is based on three typical agricultural products found within the surrounding region of Puglia - wheat, olive oil and wine. With plenty to see and do, Bari is sure to please. Begin your adventure in Bari Vecchia, the city's charming medieval old town. Pressed up against the harbor, this historic quarter is filled with several of the top sights in town. Here, you’ll encounter friendly locals chatting animatedly along streets lined with ancient stone houses and little shops. Intricate lanes create a labyrinth of alabaster stone, but the district is small enough that it’s nearly impossible to get lost. Residents take pride in their neighborhood and you will spot tidy rows of flowerpots sitting beneath medieval archways and crowding Romanesque balconies.

Set in the heart of the old town is the Basilica di San Nicola. Bari's signature basilica was one of the first Norman churches to be built in southern Italy and is a splendid example of Romanesque architecture. Dating to the 12th century, it was originally constructed to house the relics of Saint Nicholas (better known as Santa Claus), which were stolen from Turkey in 1087 by local fishing folk. Today, it is an important place of pilgrimage for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Saint Nicholas' remains, which are said to emanate a miraculous myrrh with special powers, are ensconced in a shrine in the vaulted crypt. Above, the interior is huge and simple with a gilded 17th century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th century ciborium over the altar is Puglia's oldest. Other items related to the basilica, including chalices, vestments and crests, are displayed in the adjacent Museo Nicolaiano.

Nearby is the 13th century Cattedrale Metropolitana Primaziale di San Sabino. The white stone facade adorned with sculptures and intricate details resembles its more famous neighbor. Inside, the plain walls are punctuated with deep arcades and the eastern window is a tangle of plant and animal motifs. The highlight lies in the subterranean Museo del Succorpo della Cattedrale, where excavations have revealed remnants left over from an ancient Christian basilica and various Roman ruins. This wonderful hodgepodge of archaeology includes parts of a 2nd century Roman road, the floor mosaic from a 5th century palaeo Christian basilica featuring octopi and fish motifs, and elements of a 9th century Byzantine church. It's a fascinating glimpse into the historical strata underlying the grit and bustle of modern Bari.

Staying in the old town, make your way to Castello Svevo di Bari. Roger the Norman originally built this castle in the 12th century over the ruins of a Byzantine structure. Later, Frederick II of Swabia built over the existing castle, incorporating it into his design and leaving intact the two towers of the Norman structure that still stand. The bastions, with corner towers overhanging the moat, were added in the 16th century during Aragonese rule. Note: excavation is ongoing and the largely sparse interior is used for occasional art and sculpture exhibitions. Just across the road is the must visit Arco Basso. This small street, Via dell'Arco Basso or Via delle Orecchiette, is famous for its skilled local women who handcraft fresh pasta daily. Do not miss Nunzia, she is the most celebrated nonna in the neighborhood.

Next, take a stroll along the Muraglia, the old city wall, and enjoy a drink in a cafe overlooking the sea. Then pass by the stone lined Piazza Mercantile, where debtors were once publicly whipped, and Piazza del Ferrarese, marking the path of the ancient Roman road Via Traiana, commissioned by Emperor Trajan in 109 AD. From there, explore the Murat district - the modern heart of the city. It is renowned for its elegant 19th century architecture, grid like streets and vibrant atmosphere. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II serves as the main avenue linking the old town to Murat. Lined with majestic palm trees, this bustling thoroughfare is home to notable landmarks such as the Palazzo del Governo and Teatro Piccinni, which pays homage to Bari's famous composer. At the east end of the street on the harbor is Teatro Margherita. Originally constructed from 1912 to 1914, this historic theater was restored and reopened in 2018 and is now used for traveling art and photographic exhibitions.

Via Sparano da Bari is an elegant pedestrian shopping street that stretches half a mile from the Bari Centrale train station to Bari Vecchia. This lively walkway features a mix of high end boutiques, international retail chains, elegant palazzos and cafes. Nearby is the magnificent Teatro Petruzzelli. Opened in 1903, this ornate red brick theater is celebrated for its stunning neoclassical architecture and lavish interiors that captivate both locals and visitors alike. Note: what you see today is a clever reconstruction - the original theater was destroyed in a fire in 1991, but it was painstakingly restored and reopened in 2009. It is the fourth largest theater in Italy and it plays a vital role in the city’s artistic life, with a year round calendar of events spanning opera, plays and classical concerts.

Not far away is the N' derr'a la lanze Fisherman's Market. Set on a spur of land jutting into the harbor, this can't miss spot provides a unique experience that immerses you in the local culture. Here, you can indulge in an array of fresh seafood including octopus, shellfish and sea urchin. From the market, walk south along the Lungomare. This picturesque waterfront promenade offers stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. Opened in 1927, it is the perfect place for an evening stroll (la passeggiata) and enjoying breathtaking sunsets. Conclude your tour of Bari at the Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto, a handsome art gallery set inside the former provincial palace. Inside, you'll find an impressive collection of classical and contemporary art, including works by Tintoretto, Giovanni Bellini and other Renaissance masters. Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

WHERE TO EAT

Bari has several great places to eat and enjoy a drink or two. Start your day at Salvatore Petriella Cafe & Bistrot, located at Via Salvatore Cognetti 14 in Murat. Nestled next to the stunning Teatro Petruzzelli, this cafe is unmissable for anyone with a sweet tooth. Renowned pastry chef Salvatore Petriella crafts exquisite breakfast pastries that pair perfectly with high quality coffee and tea. The cafe boasts an impressive selection of petits fours, cookies, macarons and stunning cakes like the Sacher torte. Another splendid spot is Jerome Cafe, found at Via Alessandro Maria Calefati 61. This popular place offers an elegant Parisian cafe atmosphere and a delectable selection of sweet treats. From breakfast with mouth watering brioches and croissants to well executed espressos and cappuccinos, there's something for every moment of the day.

Nearby at Via Sparano da Bari 120 is Caffe Cognetti. This specialty coffee and bakery joint serves delicious self roasted coffee and a variety of breakfast options. Go with one of the fresh pastries to complement the great coffee. Just up the way at Via Sparano da Bari 150 is Caffe Vergnano 1882. This establishment pleases the masses with darn good coffee and scrumptious pasticciotti (a warm pastry from Puglia that is filled with flavored custard such as lemon, almond, chocolate, pistachio or vanilla). Another signature delight from the region is focaccia Barese, known to have originated in Bari. It is a flat bread similar to pizza but with a softer, chewier rustic dough. Topped with olive oil, fresh tomatoes, olives, herbs and sea salt - it's so simple but will tickle your taste buds for sure.

There are 2 places in town that do focaccia exceptionally well. First, in the heart of Bari Vecchia at Strada dei Dottula 8, amidst narrow alleys and hanging laundry, Panificio Santa Rita allures with the aroma of its thin and crispy focaccia topped with sweet cherry tomatoes. This bakery, established in 1921 and now managed by brothers Peppino and Massimo Bolumetto, is easily identifiable by the long line that fortunately moves swiftly. The second is Panificio Fiore Bari, located just behind the cathedral at Strada Palazzo di Citta 38. This family run bakery has been serving up focaccia and traditional baked goods since 1930. The interior is simple yet impeccably clean, with a display of artisanal biscuits, various flavored taralli (wheat based ring shaped crackers), homemade breads and pastries.

Spaghetti all’assassina (assassin's spaghetti) is an iconic, fiery and intentionally charred pasta dish hailing from Bari. Invented in the 1960s, it breaks all traditional Italian pasta rules - raw spaghetti is cooked entirely in a cast iron pan (sartascene) with tomato broth and chili, creating a crunchy, caramelized and slightly burnt end product. Many restaurants in town have 'killer' on the menu, but in my opinion there are 2 that stand above the rest. Located at Via Vito Nicola De Nicolo 40, Al Sorso Preferito is the legendary birthplace of spaghetti all'assassina, born accidentally by chef Enzo Francavilla. The other spot is Urban Assassineria, found at Via Domenico Nicolai 10 in Murat. This hip cafe provides generous portions of the spicy and crispy bits. To extinguish the fire in your mouth, head to the always busy Gelateria Gentile at Piazza Federico II di Svevia 33. With a primo view of the castle, this popular destination has been dedicated to the art of making gelato since 1880. I annihilated the heavenly pistachio in a homemade waffle cone - delizioso.

For lunch, make your way to Al Pescatore at Piazza Federico II di Svevia 6. Located next to Castello Svevo, this renowned restaurant has been a local institution for decades, attracting both regular customers and tourists with its delightful location and top notch seafood. The menu features local fish and pasta dishes made with high quality ingredients such as scampi, tuna with oil and lemon, linguine with sea urchin and squid fritto misto. La Tana del Polpo is a cozy, local trattoria situated in the heart of Bari Vecchia at Strada Vallisa 50. This family run establishment prides itself on serving daily caught seafood and pasta dishes made with undeniably fresh ingredients. Do try the house favorite octopus sandwich.

Osteria Le Arpie is a charming tavern tucked away in a winding alley at Arco del Carmine 2 in Bari Vecchia. Offering traditional local dishes, it provides an authentic and rustic dining experience. Known for its fresh homemade cuisine, the menu features creamy burrata, orecchiette with broccoli rabe and olive oil, and rice with potatoes and mussels. Also in the old town at Strada Palazzo di Citta 51 is La Cantina dello Zio. This celebrated spot is like having a meal with an Italian family, made with simple ingredients yet bursting with complex flavors. The friendly staff add to the experience and my post meal limoncello was on the house. Found at Via Nicolo Putignani 213 in Murat is Terranima. This charming eatery, with an easygoing atmosphere, prides itself on using locally sourced ingredients, including meats from 'free' farms, vegetables from nearby fields and cheeses made with 'bruna' milk.

For dinner, head to Le Nicchie at Vico Corsioli 11 in Bari Vecchia. One of my favorites in town, this cozy restaurant cooks up authentic dishes like spaghetti with clams and orecchiette al sugo di ragu. The wine list is impressive and the rustic yet well lit ambiance adds to its appeal. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday and reservations are recommended. Another favorite of mine is Ristorante Biancofiore, located at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 13. Founded by Diego Biancofiore, this refined establishment offers an authentic taste of Puglian cuisine with a focus on fresh seafood. I opted for the six course 'dal mare' tasting menu with local natural wine pairing. Highlights included langoustine tartare, bluefish sashimi, seared cod with toasted almonds and grilled octopus with turnip tops. Note: the restaurant is open daily from 7p and bookings are advised.

Ristorante Opera is located at Via Niccolo Piccinni 151 in Murat. Do not be put off by its nondescript modernist street location, as Opera delivers a well crafted menu of superb seafood dishes, from sushi style crudos to beautifully grilled sea bass. The always innovative food is served on arty tableware in the smart yet welcoming contemporary space or on the street side terrace outside. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday. Also in Murat at Via Nicolo Putignani 71 is Radicale. This contemporary space represents the new wave of Puglian cuisine. The extensive wine list offers a selection ranging from structured and enveloping reds to elegant whites, refined sparkling wines and earthy natural wines. The menu is seasonal, well thought out and deeply rooted in local ingredients. I thoroughly enjoyed the tagliolini creamed with butter guanciale, honey and black truffle. Note: reservations are suggested.

My most memorable dining experience was at La Bul, located at Via Pasquale Villari 52 in Murat. Here, at the city's only Michelin Guide rated restaurant, chef Antonio Scalera serves outstanding cuisine accompanied by intelligently chosen wines with fascinating stories behind them. The dishes often feature traditional recipes and ingredients from Puglia yet are creative and of the highest quality. Do try for a table in the delightful courtyard and opt for one of three tasting menus - I went with the eight course 'al buio' menu and optional wine pairing. The exact dishes vary by season and chef inspiration, but frequently begin with a parade of raw fish and seafood, followed by complex meat and pasta courses. Highlights included prawn tortelli, langoustine tartare, a delectable lamb chop and chef's signature spaghettoni acqua e farina: thick water and flour pasta dressed with fish roe, fresh scallion and black truffle. Note: the restaurant is closed on Monday and bookings are essential.

End your evening in Bari with a drink or two. La Ciclatera is located at Strada Angiola 23 in Bari Vecchia. This cozy retreat offers a diverse selection of cocktails, local wines and craft beers. The vibrant decor creates an inviting atmosphere for patrons to unwind and enjoy a delightful evening. Note: the bar is open daily from 7p. Nearby in the old town at Piazza Mercantile 9 is Mercantile Nove. This charming wine bar is an ideal spot to savor local wines along with Puglian meats and cheeses. The attentive staff provides excellent service and the background music is fantastic.

Located just off the Lungomare at Largo Giordano Bruno 32 is Speakeasy Bari. This popular cocktail bar pays homage to the clandestine bars of America's prohibition era. Since its establishment in 2011 by Vincenzo Mazzilli and Nicola Milella, this speakeasy has become a favorite among locals and visitors alike. The bar offers an ever changing drink menu featuring creative cocktails crafted with not only local ingredients but also inspired by them. I was very fond of the Murgia Sour: a combination of celery and fennel with Hendrick's gin. Note: the bar is open daily from 7p. Finish up at Enoteca Bar a Vin - Mostofiore, found at Via Roberto da Bari 128 in Murat. This sister establishment of the previously mentioned Ristorante Biancofiore is a must visit for natural wine enthusiasts. It offers an extensive selection of natural wines from Puglia and around Italy. Visitors can enjoy trying different wines by the glass and receive excellent recommendations from the friendly and knowledgeable staff. The stylish interior adds to the overall experience, making it the perfect place to end the night.

WHERE TO STAY

Bari offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Bra Hotel, located at Via Abate Giacinto Gimma 35 in Murat. Set alongside a pedestrian street, this upscale boutique hotel is a short walk from Bari Vecchia and the Lungomare. Stylish rooms come with luxe touches like high end tech integration, chromotherapy showers and Diptyque bath products. Other amenities include free WiFi and Nespresso machines. Upgraded quarters add a whirlpool tub and an en suite hammam. Guests can enjoy complimentary access to the spa, with a hydrotherapy tub, sauna and steam room. There is also a contemporary restaurant, a swanky lounge and a rooftop poolside bar.

A second option is Vis Urban Suites & Spa, located at Via Sagarriga Visconti 35 in Murat. This elegant boutique hotel is close to Bari Vecchia and Castello Svevo. It carved its spa into the building's old cellars: massage room, hammam, sauna and a pool ringed by loungers and original stonework. Upstairs, individually designed rooms feature king beds, balconies and free WiFi. Upgrades add an en suite tub and a furnished terrace. Other perks include a refined cafe that offers tasty food, perfect cocktails and cooking classes.

Bari is full of natural beauty, amazing history, fascinating culture, spectacular architecture and superb cuisine. It treated me well and I look forward to returning.