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Copenhagen


WHAT TO DO

Copenhagen is one of my favorite cities in Europe. With its groundbreaking food scene, great art, fabulous architecture, stately history and fascinating culture, Copenhagen is the epitome of Nordic cool. Originally a Viking fishing village established in the 10th century, Copenhagen (Kobenhavn) became the capital of Denmark in the early 15th century. Since the turn of the 21st century, it regularly has topped the world livability lists. After all, this is one of the globe's greenest, cleanest, most sustainable urban centers - a place where cycling is serious transport, where buses and the metro run frequently and around the clock, and where the waterways are clean enough for an invigorating swim. Copenhagen wisely keeps things compact and accessible, making it an easy place to explore. It is a town of good living and has a spirit of live and let live.

Start your adventure in the historic heart of Copenhagen at Christiansborg Palace. Located on the tiny island of Slotsholmen, it contains the Danish Parliament (Folketinget), the Prime Minister's Office and the Supreme Court of Denmark. Visitor highlights include the glorious royal reception rooms, 11th century ruins and royal kitchen - all of which can be visited separately or with a combined ticket. Note: admission to the palace grounds, public galleries and tower is free of charge. Several short bridges link Slotsholmen to the rest of Copenhagen. If you walk into Slotsholmen from Ny Vestergade, you'll cross the western part of the canal and enter the large main courtyard of Christiansborg Palace, which was once used as royal riding grounds and is overseen by a statue of king Christian IX on horseback. The stables and buildings surrounding the main courtyard date back to the 1730s when the original Christiansborg palace was built by Christian VI to replace the more modest Copenhagen Castle that previously stood there. The grander west wing of Christian VI's palace went up in flames in 1794, was rebuilt in the early 19th century and was once again destroyed by fire in 1884. In 1907, the foundation for the third (and current) palace was laid by Frederik VIII and, upon completion, the national parliament and the Supreme Court moved into new chambers there. Before leaving the palace grounds, be sure to visit the Christiansborg Church and the palace tower, which offers commanding views of the city. From the palace, head to the nearby National Museum of Denmark at Ny Vestergade 10. This house of history and culture has first claim on virtually every antiquity uncovered on Danish soil - including Stone Age tools, Viking weaponry, rune stones and medieval jewelry. Among the highlights is a finely crafted 3500 year old Sun Chariot, as well as bronze lurs (instrumental horns), some of which date back 3000 years. You'll find sections related to the Norse and Inuit people of Greenland and an evocative exhibition called Stories of Denmark, covering Danish history from 1660 to 2000. Among the highlights here are recreated living quarters (among them an 18th century Copenhagen apartment) and a whimsical collection of toys, including a village of wonderful doll houses.

Next, take a short stroll to Radhuspladsen - the lively square outside Copenhagen's Radhus (City Hall). It unites the busy thoroughfare of Vesterbrogade and the bustling Stroget pedestrian street. It is also home to a number of city icons. Among these is the Italian inspired Radhus itself and a charming statue of Hans Christian Andersen. Seated and sporting a top hat, the writer gazes wistfully at the historic Tivoli Gardens amusement park located across the very street named in his honor. A few steps away from Denmark's most famous storyteller is the Dragon Fountain, depicting a large dragon doing battle with a bull. The fountain was designed by Joakim Skovgaard in collaboration with Thorvald Bindesboll. Note: Bindesboll is best known for designing the world famous Carlsberg beer label. Next to the fountain stands a stone pillar, marking where Vesterport - the West gate - once stood when the city center was surrounded by fortified walls. Identical pillars can be found at Norreport (the North gate) and Osterport (the East gate). Towering above the square are the Lur Blowers, a pair of Viking statues sharing a tall pillar originally meant for one. The instrument they are playing is the previously mentioned lur, a Norse Bronze Age relic once used for religious ceremonies and rituals. Completed in 1905, Copenhagen's national Romantic style City Hall is the work of architect Martin Nyrop. Inside is the awesome World Clock, designed by astro mechanic Jens Olsen. It displays not only local time, but also solar time, sidereal time, sunrises and sunsets, firmament and celestial pole migration, planet revolutions and the Gregorian calendar. Radhus' architecture is influenced by both medieval Danish and northern Italian architecture, the latter most notable in the central, fountain graced courtyard. Adorning the facade above the main entrance is a golden statue of Bishop Absalon, who founded the city in 1167. Cross HC Andersen Blvd and arrive at Copenhagen's most famous attraction - Tivoli Gardens (the main entrance is at Vesterbrogade 3). Dating from 1843, tasteful Tivoli wins fans with its dreamy whirl of amusement rides, twinkling pavilions, carnival games and open air stage shows. Visitors can ride the renovated, century old roller coaster, enjoy the famous Saturday evening fireworks display or just soak up the story book atmosphere. Be sure to visit at night when the fairy lights are switched on. Note: outside the main summer season, Tivoli also opens for approximately three weeks around Halloween, from mid November to late December for Christmas, through February for the Winter Season and at Easter.

Down the street at Dantes Plads 7 (just off HC Andersen Blvd) is the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. The collection is built around the personal assemblage of Carl Jacobsen, the son of the founder of the Carlsberg Breweries. It is divided into two parts: Northern Europe's largest array of antiquities and an elegant collection of 19th century Danish and French art. The latter includes the largest series of Rodin sculptures outside of France and no less than 40 Gauguin paintings. These are displayed along with works by greats like Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet and Renoir. At the museum's heart is a delightful glass domed conservatory, filled with palm trees and a gorgeous cafe that's especially welcoming in the Danish winter. Note: the museum is open from 11a-6p and is closed on Monday. Another superb art museum is the National Gallery of Denmark, located at Solvgade 48. Also known as the Statens Museum for Kunst or SMK, it straddles two contrasting, interconnected buildings: a late 19th century palazzo and a sharply minimalist extension. The museum houses medieval and Renaissance works and impressive collections of Dutch and Flemish artists - including Rubens, Breughel and Rembrandt. It holds the world's finest collection of 19th century Danish 'Golden Age' artists, among them Eckersberg and Hammershoi, foreign greats like Matisse and Picasso, and modern Danish heavyweights including Per Kirkeby. Statens Museum for Kunst also maintains an extensive collection of drawings, engravings and lithographs representing the works of such prominent artists as Degas and Toulouse Lautrec. Note: the museum is open from 10a-6p and is closed on Monday. Not far away is Rosenborg Castle and the King's Garden. A once upon a time combination of turrets, gables and moat, the early 17th century Rosenborg Castle was built in Dutch Renaissance style between 1606 and 1633 by King Christian IV to serve as his summer home. Today the castle's 24 upper rooms are chronologically arranged, housing the furnishings and portraits of each monarch from Christian IV to Frederik VII. The best part is the basement Treasury, home to the dazzling crown jewels - among them Christian IV's glorious crown and Christian III's jewel studded sword. In the 1830s the royal family decided to open the castle to visitors as a museum, while still using it as a treasury for royal regalia and jewels. After visiting the castle, take a break in the lovely King's Garden - the oldest and most visited park in central Copenhagen.

One more park that is worth a visit is Frederiksberg Gardens, one of the largest and most attractive green spaces in the city. Guarding the main entrance is 19th century royal Frederik VI, who would thrill his loyal subjects by taking boat rides along Frederiksberg Gardens' canals. The park's imposing baroque palace, Frederiksborg Slot, was the royal family's summer residence until the mid 19th century. Don't miss the Chinese Pavilion, built in 1799 as a royal tea house and the 250 year old Pacifier Tree - its branches hung with hundreds of colorful ribbons tied to baby pacifiers. According to Danish tradition, when a toddler turns three it is time to give up their pacifier. To make the separation easier, parents and children entrust the pacifier to their local 'sucky tree', along with a note on behalf of the toddler asking the tree to take good care of it. From the park, wander the nearby Vesterbro neighborhood along its main street, Istedgade. This hip and gritty area is full of cool street art, trendy shops, ethnic eateries and chill bars. Next, check out Stroget and the old Latin Quarter. Pedestrianized Stroget (pronounced stroll) weaves through Copenhagen's historical core. There are several notable landmarks throughout this tourist friendly zone. The 115 foot high, red brick Round Tower (Rundetarn) was built by King Christian IV in 1642 as an astronomical observatory. The tower still functions as an excellent stargazing platform, making it the oldest functioning observatory in Europe. From there, make your way to Amagertorv - this dashing square is the beating heart of the Stroget pedestrian area. Its centerpiece is the imposing Stork Fountain, the winning design in a competition to present the former crown prince and his wife a gift for their silver wedding anniversary in 1894. Note: stop in to Cafe Norden for some coffee and cake. Found just off Stroget is Grabrodretorv - this colorful square is named for the friary that stood here back in the 13th century. It was destroyed by fire in 1728, bombarded by the British in 1807 and twice rebuilt. Once the site of a market hall and later a hot spot for local college students, today it's a quiet oasis, home to restaurants and bars - many with charming patios. The Latin Quarter gets its nickname from the presence of the old campus of Copenhagen University, where Latin was once widely spoken. This is one of the city's oldest districts - dotted with historic, pastel hued buildings and postcard pretty nooks. Founded in 1479, the university has mostly outgrown its original quarters, with faculties now spread across the city. That said, the Latin Quarter remains a popular spot for students and academics.

Nyhavn (New Harbor) was built in 1670 by King Christian V as a shelter from the storms of the North and Baltic Sea, and to connect Kongens Nytorv (King's New Market) to the harbor. It was long a haunt for sailors and writers, including Hans Christian Andersen. He wrote several works while living at number 20 and also spent time living at numbers 18 and 67. The oldest house on the canal is number 9, remarkably unaltered since its construction in 1681. Today Nyhavn is a tourist magnet of brightly colored gabled town houses, salty boats and foaming beers. There are few nicer places to be on a sunny day than sitting at an outdoor table at a cafe on the quayside of the Nyhavn canal. Note: Nyhavn is also a handy place to hop on a boat ride with Canal Tours Copenhagen. They run one hour cruises of the city's canals and harbor, taking in many major sights, including the Royal Library, Opera House, Amalienborg Palace and the Little Mermaid statue. Not far from Nyhavn is Frederik's Church, located at Frederiksgade 4. Consecrated in 1894, this neo baroque Marble Church is one of Copenhagen's most imposing architectural assets. Its grandiose dome - inspired by St Peter's in Rome and the largest church dome in Scandinavia - offers an impressive view over the city. The church's exterior is ringed by statues of Danish theologians and saints.

Conclude your tour of Copenhagen with a visit to the Christianshavn neighborhood. Take the pedestrian only Inner Harbor Bridge (Inderhavnsbroen) from the end of the Nyhavn canal. Christianshavn channels Amsterdam with its snug canals, outdoor cafes and alternative lifestyle. It was established by Christian IV in the early 17th century as a commercial center. That it recalls Amsterdam is no coincidence - its network of boat lined waterways is modeled after those in Holland. Equally reminiscent of easygoing Amsterdam is the area's most famous attraction - the free spirited community of Christiania. Since its establishment by squatters in 1971, this 'free town' has drawn nonconformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living. Be sure to explore beyond the settlement's infamous Pusher Street - lined with shady hash and marijuana dealers who do not appreciate photographs - and you'll stumble upon a semi bucolic wonderland of whimsical do it yourself homes, cozy garden plots, eateries, beer gardens and music venues. Note: the main entrance into Christiania is on Prinsessegade. From Christiania, walk down Prinsessegade until you reach the Church of Our Savior (Vor Frelsers Kirke). It's hard to miss this 17th century baroque church and its 300 foot high spiral tower. For a soul stirring city view, make the head spinning 400 step ascent to the top - the last 150 steps run along the outside rim of the tower, narrowing to the point where they literally disappear at the top. Inspired by Borromini's tower of St Ivo in Rome, the spire was added in 1752 by Lauritz de Thurah. Inside the church, highlights include an ornate baroque altar and elaborately carved pipe organ from 1698.

WHERE TO EAT

Copenhagen has many great places to eat, drink and indulge. Start your day at Moller, located at Norrebrogade 160 in the Norrebro neighborhood. This cozy and rustic breakfast haven focuses on quality local ingredients. Eggs, meats, cheeses, breads and more are offered individually so you can create your own meal according to your tastes. The house made sourdough bread, fresh nuggets with mayo and the half avocado filled with crumbed almonds, chili and creme fraiche are especially delicious. For the best coffee in town, head down the street to Coffee Collective at Jaegersborggade 57. It has helped revolutionize the city's coffee culture with its rich, complex cups of caffeinated magic. Note: there are a few other locations, including at the gourmet food market Torvehallerne KBH (more on this later). Another cool spot for breakfast is Hyggestund, found at Viktoriagade 6. Modeling itself on an American diner while maintaining a hip Scandinavian vibe, it serves up chicken and waffles, biscuits and gravy, and doughnuts alongside breakfast classics - all washed down with organic juices or beer on tap. Copenhagen has several dynamite bakeries and the following are not to be missed. Located at Falkoner Alle 34 in the Frederiksberg neighborhood is Brodflov. It offers some of the best baked goods in the city, including the classic Danish kanelsnegl (cinnamon roll) and tebirkes (poppy seed pastry). The tarts are out of this world - do try the meringue and salted caramel. Sankt Peders Bageri is the oldest bakery in Copenhagen, dating back to 1652. Found at Sankt Pedersstraede 29 in the Latin Quarter, it is famous for its cinnamon rolls, tarts, turnovers, croissants and muffins. The small, cozy interior is decorated with old photos on the walls and chandeliers on the ceiling. Nearby at Skoubogade 3 is La Glace. Slip into its maze of time warped rooms and succumb to a slice of the classic valnoddekage (walnut cake), a combo of crushed and caramelized walnuts, whipped cream and mocca glace (a coffee infused chocolate).

When lunchtime rolls around, head on over to the excellent and previously mentioned Torvehallerne KBH. Located at Frederiksborggade 21, this gourmet food market is an essential stop on the Copenhagen foodie trail. A delicious ode to the fresh, the tasty and the artisanal - the market's beautiful stalls peddle everything from seasonal herbs and berries to smoked meats, seafood and cheeses, smorrebrod, fresh pasta and hand brewed coffee. You can easily spend hours exploring its twin, side by side halls. Note: smorrebrod (pronounced smuhr-broht) is a traditional Danish open faced sandwich that usually consists of a piece of buttered rye bread, a dense, dark brown bread, topped with homemade cold cuts, pieces of meat or fish, cheese or spreads and garnishes. A solid choice to start at Torvehallerne is Hallernes Smorrebrod. Not only is the smorrebrod here scrumptious, it - like the beers and snaps on offer - is well priced. Grab a spot at the wooden bar, order a Mikkeller beer and dive into beautifully presented classics like fiskefilet (fish fillet) with remoulade. If it's on the menu, do get the roast pork with pickled red cabbage. Grod is also worth a visit - go with the chicken congee. Omegn is a Nordic deli that stocks the top products from various small scale Danish farms. The cheese selection includes Tyhbo - a beautiful, sharp cow's milk cheese from northern Jutland. Another good buy is the handcrafted Borghgedal beers from Vejle. If you can, score a table and nibble on cheese and charcuterie, or go with a warming serve of skipperlabskov (beef stew). Unika by Arla works with small dairies, artisan cheesemakers and top chefs to produce fantastic Nordic cheeses. Look out for the unpasteurized Kry cheese. Equally unique are the apple based dessert wines from Jutland's Cold Hand Winery. Finish up with a latte from Coffee Collective and some sweet tooth delights from Summerbird, Denmark's best chocolatier.

An additional market is Tivoli Food Hall, found at Vesterbrogade 3. Opened in 2017, it offers a range of international cuisines as well as Danish eats, including bakeries and a wine bar. Local favorites Gorms pizza and Hallernes Smorrebrod are here, as is Michelin starred Kadeau with its first fast food venture, BobbaBella. Note: the food hall is part of Tivoli Gardens amusement park, but can be accessed independently. Danes love a good polse (sausage), and hot dog vans are everywhere in Copenhagen. DOP is the best, with a van close to the Round Tower (Rundetarn). Everything here is organic, from the meat and vegetables to the toppings. I highly recommend a classic Danish roasted hot dog with mustard, ketchup, remoulade, pickles and onions. One more must visit hot dog spot is John's Hotdog Deli, found at Flaesketorvet 39 in Kodbyen (Meatpacking District) - Vesterbro neighborhood. For the top Doner kebab in town, try Kebabistan at Istedgade 105. For another special treat, head to Slurp Ramen Joint at Nansensgade 90 in the Norreport neighborhood. The deeply flavorsome chicken and pork bone broth is cooked for more than eight hours, while the noodles are made in house with a pinch of freshly ground rye for added deliciousness. Note: the place is small and super popular - so get there early. Cozy, creaky, wood paneled Cafe Halvvejen (Krystalgade 11) channels a fast fading Copenhagen. The menu is hearty, generous and cheap for this part of town, with open faced sandwiches, frikadeller (Danish meatballs) and pariserbof (minced beef steak with egg and onions). The deceptively named miniplatte offers a satisfying overview of classic Nordic flavors. Whatever you choose, be sure to wash it down with a shot of akvavit (a distilled spirit that is principally produced in Scandinavia). Also try fisk, a favorite in Denmark. It is made with a mixture of quality vodka, eucalyptus, menthol and licorice - refreshing and bracing when served ice cold.

My two favorite locations for afternoon smorrebrod are Schonnemann and Restaurant Kronborg. A Danish institution and found at Hauser Plads 16, Schonnemann has been lining bellies with smorrebrod and snaps since 1877. Originally a hit with farmers in town selling their produce, the restaurant's current fan base includes revered chefs like Rene Redzepi - try the open faced sandwich named after him: smoked halibut with creamed cucumber, radishes and chives on caraway bread. Other standouts include the King's Garden (potatoes with smoked mayonnaise, fried onions and chives). Make sure to order both a beer and a glass of snaps to wash down the goodness. Note: book ahead (or head in early) to avoid long lunchtime waits. Behind its centuries old walls, cozy, wood beamed Restaurant Kronborg (Brolaeggerstraede 12) serves up classic Danish fare. Favorites include the sweet, succulent Brantevik herring, marinated in sugar, vinegar and allspice and topped with fresh herbs. Toast to tradition with an akvavit or a craft brew from Copenhagen's own Norrebro Bryghus. Located at Jaegersborggade 40 in Norrebro is the outstanding Manfreds og Vin. It is the ideal local bistro, with passionate staffers, boutique natural wines and a regularly changing menu that favors organic produce (most from the restaurant's own farm) cooked simply and sensationally. Standout dishes include grilled spring onion served with pistachio puree, crunchy breadcrumbs and salted egg yolk. If you're hungry and curious like me, opt for the seven course menu. Note: the option of bar seating makes it a good spot for solo diners, like me. Barr can be found at Strandgade 93 in Christianshavn. It does small plates and some of my favorites were the sourdough pancakes with caviar, pork schnitzel and frikadeller. For top notch seafood, make your way to Kodbyens Fiskebar at Flaesketorvet 100 in Vesterbro's trendy Kodbyen (Meatpacking District). This popular spot has a modern decor and shells out some tasty dishes. I enjoyed the oysters and lobster with beer meringue, as well as the razor clams served on crispy rice paper.

For dinner, head to the excellent Noma at Refshalevej 96 in Christianshavn. This ground breaking New Nordic restaurant presents dishes across three seasons: seafood, vegetables, and game and forest. The Scandinavian style minimalist interiors make a pleasant setting. UPDATE: in 2025, the restaurant will no longer exist in its current form. Also in Christianshavn and also excellent is Kadeau, found at Wildersgade 10B. This two Michelin starred standout has firmly established itself as one of Scandinavia's gastronomic powerhouses. Whether it's salted and burnt scallops drizzled with clam bouillon or an unexpected combination of lardo, thyme, cherry blossom and Korean pine, each dish manages to evoke moods and landscapes with extraordinary creativity and skill. The wine list is impressive and the service is sincere. Note: be sure to book well in advance and do go with the tasting menu, it is divine. Host is located at Norre Farimagsgade 41 in Norreport and its popularity is easy to understand: award winning interiors and New Nordic food that's equally fabulous and filling. The set menu is superb, with smaller surprise dishes thrown in and evocative creations like birch smoked scallops with horseradish and green beans. Restaurant Mes can be found on a corner at Jarmers Plads 1. This rising star burst onto the Copenhagen dining scene in 2017. Owned by chef Mads Rye Magnusson, it's an intimate space. The menu is driven by market produce and the creative whims of its young, highly talented head chef. Dining here is a set menu affair, each course as beautiful to look at as it is to eat. Be sure to book ahead. Geist is at Kongens Nytorv 8 and is owned by celebrity chef Bo Bech, a man driven by experimentation. His long list of small plates pairs Nordic and non Nordic ingredients in unexpected, often thrilling ways. Create your tasting menu from dishes like wafers of avocado with lightly salted caviar, turbot and fennel ravioli with gruyere or out of the box desserts like poached apple with mustard seed and sweet and sour mandarin. Last but certainly not least there's Pluto, located at Borgergade 16 in Norreport. Loud and friendly, it is not short of friends and for good reason: great music, attentive staff and beautiful dishes by respected local chef Rasmus Oubaek. Whether it's flawlessly seared cod with seasonal carrots or a side of new potatoes, funky truffles and green beans in a mussel broth - the family style menu is all about enjoying the experience. Note: try to score a seat at the bar.

Copenhagen has a number of cool places to have a drink and see a show - I would like to share a few of my favorites. Begin at Mikkeller & Friends, found at Stefansgade 35 in Norrebro. A joint venture of the Mikkeller and To Ol breweries, it has 40 artisan draft beers and over 200 bottled varieties - which include a chipotle porter and an imperial stout aged in tequila barrels. Note: be sure to check out the vintage style bar in the back of the joint. From there, head to Brus at Guldbergsgade 29F. What was once a locomotive factory is now a huge, sleek, hip brewpub. The world renowned microbrewery behind it is To Ol and the bar's 30 plus taps offer a rotating selection of To Ol standards and small batch specials, as well as 8 on tap cocktails. The barkeeps are affable and happy to let you sample different options before you commit. Next, hit Mikkeller Bar at Viktoriagade 8B in Vesterbro. Cult status Mikkeller flies the flag for craft beer - it has 20 brews on tap which include its own acclaimed creations and from other microbreweries around the globe. Expect anything from tequila barrel aged stouts to yuzu infused fruit beers. The bottled offerings are equally inspired, with cheese and snacks to soak up the foamy goodness. If you fancy a cocktail, do visit Lidkoeb at Vesterbrogade 72B (follow the signs into the courtyard). This top tier lounge has knowledgeable barkeeps and clever, seasonal libations - like the Freja's Champagne: a gin based concoction with muddled fresh ginger, lemon and maraschino liqueur. Note: there is a whiskey bar upstairs, only open on the weekend. Not far away at Stenosgade 1 is Curfew. This speakeasy cocktail bar serves up expertly crafted creations. Alongside the classics are original mixes using intriguing ingredients such as aloe vera soda, poppy flower syrup, green tea powder and raw licorice. The stylishly appointed lounge with smartly attired bartenders, vintage bar tools and decor is reminiscent of a bygone era. From there, make your way over to the Latin Quarter and Bar 1105 at Kristen Bernikows Gade 4. Named for the local zip code, its cocktail repertoire spans both the classic and the revisited. Conclude your evening at my favorite bar in town - Ruby, hidden away in an unmarked 18th century townhouse at Nybrogade 10. Here, suave mixologists whip up near flawless, seasonal libations created with craft spirits and homemade syrups, while a lively crowd spills into a labyrinth of cozy, decadent rooms. Copenhagen has a cool music scene and some of the best venues in Europe. There are 2 in particular that stand out above the rest. The first is Vega, located at Enghavevej 40 in Vesterbro. The best of Copenhagen's live music venues, it hosts everyone from big name rock, blues and jazz acts to underground indie, alternative and electro up and comers. The second is Loppen, found at Sydomradet 4B in Christianshavn. Situated in a wooden beamed warehouse in Freetown Christiania, it delivers both established and emerging acts from Denmark and beyond. Music styles are as eclectic as the crowds, with anything from rock and funk to post punk, jazz and electronic.

WHERE TO STAY

Copenhagen offers a number of places to call home during your stay and there are 2 that I especially enjoyed. Both are in prime locations and provide exceptional service, modern amenities and comfort. The first is Hotel d'Angleterre, located at Kongens Nytorv 34. Overlooking Kongens Nytorv square, this grand hotel in a refined 1755 building is near Charlottenborg Palace and not far from vibrant Nyhavn. Refined rooms with plush furnishings have minibars, Nespresso machines, free WiFi and flat screen TVs, plus marble bathrooms. Upgrades add sitting areas and balconies with city views. Amenities include the Michelin starred restaurant Marchal and the swanky champagne bar Balthazar. There's also a luxury spa and an indoor pool.

A second option is Hotel Skt Petri, located in the spirited Latin Quarter at Krystalgade 22. This hip, contemporary hotel is a short walk from the Round Tower (Rundetarn) and the gourmet food market Torvehallerne KBH. Stylish, modern rooms feature wooden flooring, complimentary WiFi, flat screen TVs and minibars. Some have private patios or balconies and separate living areas. Other perks include a trendy Scandinavian restaurant, a lively cocktail lounge and a cafe.

Copenhagen is full of culture, cuisine, art, architecture and history. It treated me well and I look forward to returning. Tak Kobenhavn.

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